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The Fin 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a R

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA:  Michael Creel 1989 or 1990
Page Views: 432
Submitted By: Aron Quiter on Oct 3, 2004

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BETA PHOTO: The Fin from below with bolts. The Fin is about 1...

Description 

This route heads up the face of the gigantic 100' fin that heads up the left side of the main wall. You can't miss it.

Climbing is face action up to the crux, which is just after two parallel bolts (there for aiding), and is a hard and balancy one-move wonder. Calling the move 5.11c is probably a sandbag; the its probably in the low 12 range by current standards.

If you choose to aid the one-move wonder 5.11c route, this is an excellent 5.10b THAT IS NOT ENTIRELY A SPORT ROUTE. There is also the tricky grear-protected roof move at the top. Anyone at the .10b level that heads up the route with merely a rack of draws will be quite surprised at the final roof-crack move that appears just before the top anchors.

As for the .11c variation, the one move wonderosity of the route doesn't justify climbing the route.

Protection 

7 1/2 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. A recommended (but not required) 1/2" to 1" piece can be added to protect the final 10b crux before the top anchors.


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By Brian Quiter
From: Oakland, CA
Oct 14, 2004

I think this was a great route... once i aided the crux. I can usually pull an 11c move without much difficulty, but was pretty dumbfounded on this one. So i agree with aron that it's probably ~5.12 for today's standards... either that or we were missing something.

But I dont' think this route should be rated 's'. It should be stressed that you should bring a 1" cam for the top, but once you've done that you should be fine.
By Michael Creel
Oct 5, 2007

Back when we rated it, 11c seemed right. Compared to Beast of Burden or Neanderthal Dudes, the Fin is easier, right? But the crux is definitely a boulder problem - it took me several visits to redpoint. The reason that there are 2 bolts next to one another is not to make it easier to aid, it's because there was an incipient crack next to one, and I wasn't sure it was solid. Since it was the only pro, a backup seemed in order. Are the bolts still the 5/16" piece-o-crap rawl drives? I give this route 4 stars just for the way it looks.
By Max
Jun 20, 2009

Four stars for sure! Heady lead.
By Salamanizer
Administrator
From: Vacaville Ca.
Jul 1, 2013
rating: 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b R

Something at the supposed .11c start must have broken. I onsighted beast of burden and was stopped cold on the start of the fin. I tried it several ways, even pulled through and clipped the bolt above to get a TR for the move. Nothing! I can usually pull .12 the first try and pull through a move of low 5.13. This thing was impossible for me so yeah, something broke and it's now next to impossible.

The climbing above was ok. Quite runnout but easy between bolts. An exposed route with amazing position, but I thought the actual climbing was mediocre. Would have been a blast to bolt on lead though.
By J. Hickok
Aug 15, 2013
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

Very very hard crux that I could only end up getting on toprope - 12b/c??. The lead is solid 10 if you pull through the crux. I think the rock is excellent and the climbing fun, but I don't think I would call it runout (possibly PG13). Very beautiful setting and beautiful piece of rock.
By Michael Creel
Sep 29, 2013

The beta for the crux, as I recall, is to clip the bolt (or bolts, if the two original 5/16's are still there), then crimp like a MF on small but reasonable edges, hike your feet up, step through to the L with your R foot, and edge with the outside edge of R foot on a small, insecure edge. Then execute an insecure and balancey step up and reach L to the arete. It's a move that's not easy to repeat even after you've done it. I'd be surprised if the hold have fallen off, the rock was quite solid, and traffic no doubt is low.
By Salamanizer
Administrator
From: Vacaville Ca.
Sep 30, 2013
rating: 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b R

Na, something's fukked up. I lead it with a guy that regularly pulls V11 boulder problems and neither of us could pull the moves, even on TR. Go back and lead it. Something broke or was chipped off.
By Michael Creel
Sep 30, 2013

I'd love to give it a try, but I live in Spain now. Are the bolts still the 5/16" buttonheads? Those things sucked!