2014 Update: Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and all seasonal raptor closure areas on U.S. Forest Service land will be re-opened August 1, 2014 for climbing.
Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st through July 31st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at www.fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/recreation.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
The Fifth World starts just left of "Hands of Destiny" on the eastside of Animal World Rock. Climb up some short corners using gear to reach the first bolt. Make a move right and then up passing the first and second bolt to a series of technical moves up small, thin seams. Clip the third bolt and reach a good hold. Angle left and up into a V-slot. Climb out of the slot and follow a tedious crack up a vertical wall to the anchors. Great climbing on excellent rock. One of the best routes at the crag.
Use medium gear to reach the first of 11 bolts. Rap from a two-bolt anchor.
I wouldn't call the rock quality on the lower section through the crux excellent. Maybe after a few dozen ascents it could be ok; for now it's quite flakey and dirty-- a far cry from that on 'Hands' and the rest of the popular routes at upper Animal World.
Not sure I'd call it one of the best routes at the crag, however, it is worth a go. In its current state, it is rather unpleasant due to seemingly zero cleaning. Look out below or risk an endless showering of dirt, lichen, crumblies, and guano.....
Though it appears this route still sees few ascents, it has cleaned up quite nicely based on previous comments. The crux sequence is low on the route, making it feel more like a V4 boulder problem to a 5.11. Still, there are plenty of interesting, heads-up sequences throughout the pitch making for a truly worthy line. 5 stars!
In Sven Speak: this route is very tough for the fingers; I did not make flash. You must arrive to the fourth bolt at five meters with a preparation for crimping. It can be helpful also to prepare a long sling or double draw already on this bolt to facilitate clipping. Above here, you will find many meters of fun and pumping 6c (5.11) that is not so tough for the fingers after all.
I was actually quite impressed with this route. I have always overlooked it given that 2 mega classics sit just to the right of this line. The crux is a bit weird and scrunched, and there is super fun pumpy 5.11 climbing after it. You don't need gear getting to the first clip. It's super chill, just climb with caution through the rotten rock. All in all, a decent route and one you should get on one day if you have done all of the other routes on the wall.
By Jack Sparrow From: denver, co May 30, 2013 rating: 5.12c7b+27IX-27E6 6b PG13
This climb is awesome with a very cool, bouldery crux. Beta alert: for the crux sequence, everyone I've seen climb this does a very big throw to a lieback pinch that is very bad until you position correctly. I've never been able to do this move that way. I hit the good, sloped, right hand crimp left hand on sloper. I then bump left hand to a hidden crimp undercling, right hand goes to a flat sidepull. Then I bring my left foot way high to a hellhook just under left hand. I then statically cross left hand to a crimp sidepull in the seam then switch your heel to a toe hook (this is the crux for me). Then move left hand to lieback pinch release toe hook and throw to the jug. For me, this route is solid 12c. I have a hard time even taking the slash grade, because the crux alone is V5 either way you do it. Also, don't underestimate the upper crack, it's just tricky enough to spit you off. Awesome climb, should get done more.