The Fifth World 

I wouldn't call the rock quality on the lower section through the crux excellent. Maybe after a few dozen ascents it could be ok; for now it's quite flakey and dirty-- a far cry from that on 'Hands' and the rest of the popular routes at upper Animal World.

Not sure I'd call it one of the best routes at the crag, however, it is worth a go. In its current state, it is rather unpleasant due to seemingly zero cleaning. Look out below or risk an endless showering of dirt, lichen, crumblies, and guano.....

Though it appears this route still sees few ascents, it has cleaned up quite nicely based on previous comments. The crux sequence is low on the route, making it feel more like a V4 boulder problem to a 5.11. Still, there are plenty of interesting, heads-up sequences throughout the pitch making for a truly worthy line. 5 stars!

In Sven Speak: this route is very tough for the fingers; I did not make flash. You must arrive to the fourth bolt at five meters with a preparation for crimping. It can be helpful also to prepare a long sling or double draw already on this bolt to facilitate clipping. Above here, you will find many meters of fun and pumping 6c (5.11) that is not so tough for the fingers after all.

That is high quality Sven-speak, not too much, not too little, just right.

For the flash, maybe three plan trainings is OK. Clippings, clippings, then problems, then is easy?

I was actually quite impressed with this route. I have always overlooked it given that 2 mega classics sit just to the right of this line. The crux is a bit weird and scrunched, and there is super fun pumpy 5.11 climbing after it. You don't need gear getting to the first clip. It's super chill, just climb with caution through the rotten rock. All in all, a decent route and one you should get on one day if you have done all of the other routes on the wall.

This climb is awesome with a very cool, bouldery crux. Beta alert: for the crux sequence, everyone I've seen climb this does a very big throw to a lieback pinch that is very bad until you position correctly. I've never been able to do this move that way. I hit the good, sloped, right hand crimp left hand on sloper. I then bump left hand to a hidden crimp undercling, right hand goes to a flat sidepull. Then I bring my left foot way high to a hellhook just under left hand. I then statically cross left hand to a crimp sidepull in the seam then switch your heel to a toe hook (this is the crux for me). Then move left hand to lieback pinch release toe hook and throw to the jug. For me, this route is solid 12c. I have a hard time even taking the slash grade, because the crux alone is V5 either way you do it. Also, don't underestimate the upper crack, it's just tricky enough to spit you off. Awesome climb, should get done more.