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Exploratory Surgery 
Fiend, The 
Measure for Measure? 
Mountaineer's Route 
Thought Control 

The Fiend 

YDS: 5.13c French: 8a+ Ewbanks: 30 UIAA: X- British: E7 7a

Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13c/d French: 8b Ewbanks: 31 UIAA: X British: E8 7a [details]
FA: Dan Michael
Page Views: 1,351
Submitted By: Taylor Roy on Aug 8, 2006
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The Fiend stems and contorts up the obvious, vibrantly colored, overhanging dihedral on the Stonehenge formation. Boulder past three bolts to a huge flake, place a red Camalot, and then funk your way past two more bolts, and increasingly difficult moves to the anchors. Unfortunately, an existing pebble was reinforced at the top of this route. Nevertheless, this is a very unique, and beautiful climb with a lot of value.


This is the only bolted dihedral on the formation. The anchors consist of two very solid nuts with a single carabiner (nonlocking). There is also a carabiner on the second to last bolt, which makes it easier to clean the route. A 50 meter rope will easily get you down.


7 quickdraws and a single red (#1) Camalot. If you plan to toprope it, you may also want a locking carabiner for the anchors.

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