|The Prow Area
The Faux Pas Arete is the clean-cut white corner to the right of Recompense's top pitch. Since the granite is a striking shade of white, it is easily seen from the road below.
The route is very convenient to TR. Simply set a belay where Recompense ends and lower your climber to the obvious mini-ledge. From this ledge, climb right to the corner, and delicately smear, slap, and finesse your way to the top.
To lead, rappel to the ledge, set a belay in the Recompense corner and give your climber a vote of confidence as he smears, slaps, and finesses his way to the top. It's bolted, but this pitch is certainly not a sport route. The distance from the first to the second bolt is unnerving.
Bolts. Gear to set an anchor, either at the top or the bottom of the pitch (or both).
FPA is best described as side pulling on the arete...
While this photo is not of any technical part of t...
|By Jay Knower|
From: Plymouth, NH
Oct 26, 2009
|By M Sprague|
From: New England
Oct 21, 2013
Does anybody else find that it is a lot easier staying on the right side of the arete until the very top? I just TRed it, but couldn't help thinking "why aren't the bolts over here?" Must have been from bolting on the lead. It was beautiful climbing on the right, flowed nicely and great positioning. Felt like easier 11 that way.
|By john strand|
From: southern colo
Oct 22, 2013
I'm pretty sure it was rap bolted on the f/a..? never tried it on the right side.