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Mid Cliffs
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Unsorted Routes:

The Father 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 65'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 64
Submitted By: Trevor. on Feb 25, 2014

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BETA PHOTO: The route. Climb the hand crack until you are und...

Seasonal Raptor Closures.

Description 

This is a pretty cool route with great exposure at the crux. It goes up a scaly crack to a roof, then left at the roof. The moves to get out from under the roof are the crux. It takes great pro the whole route as long as you're careful about the flakiness in the lower crack.

Location 

Maybe 50ft right of Sweat Engine?

Protection 

Gear including a #3 Camalot. Anchors are two side by side quick clips that will twist your rope if you lower through them.


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By CHopwood
From: Boise, ID
Dec 11, 2014

This is one of the absolute BEST TRAD LINES AT THE CLIFFS! There are a few stones still rattling around in the hand crack but, after climbing this line many times, Iím certain that very few of them will ever come out. There was also a death block just under the roof and it is now gone. There is a little flakey rock but most of it is cleaned up.
Climb a hand crack (with plenty of other options for hands and feet) to the underside of a roof, place a few smaller pieces of gear and then pull out of the left side of the roof to a no hands rest on a ledge. You feel incredibly exposed at this point, as thereís no real place to put gear, so make sure you have good gear below your feet before you pull the bulge to the chains. If you really want protection here, there is a tiny crack (took a .1 camalot) just over the top of the bulge that you can use to protect the final move to the chains. Rap to the right of the crack at the top. This will not only take you straight down your line for cleaning but if you start your rap into the dihedral, your rope can easily get stuck in small crack at the top of the bulge. DONíT MISS THIS ROUTE!! It is amazing.