The Fastest Gun
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|Type: ||Trad, 4 pitches, 500 feet, Grade III|
|Consensus: ||5.10b [details]|
|FA: ||Geoff Smith and Dick Bushey, 1/77 (p.1 & 2) Jim Dunn, 1978 (p.3 & 4)|
|Submitted By: ||Chris Duca on Nov 10, 2007|
|Access is limited in the spring and summer due to peregrine falcon nesting; so there are some closures. Checking with the Adirondack Climbers Coalition or the NYDEC can provide the closure status.|
Season Peregrine Falcon Closures MORE INFO >>>
As stated by Don Mellor in his comprehensive guidebook to the adirondacks: "Taken separately, each pitch of this route would be considered among Poke-O's best. Linked together they create an experience that seems to good to be in the East."
The Fastest Gun epitomizes all that climbing at Poke-O is about: In-your-face climbing from top to bottom with dizzying exposure, airy belay stances, and a short, but mandatory runout above small gear. This route is not only a classic Adirondack climb, but a route worthy of coast to coast notoriety.
Begin this route at a big right-facing flake with an off-width starting at about 15' off the ground. grunt your way up the layback flake, slam a #4 Camalot in the off-width and figure out how to get yourself to the top of the off-width below the first roof.
place a Camalot under the roof, undercling and jam your way around this strenuous section until some feet can be had off to your right. Take a quick rest, then finish up the jamming/layback section to the slung blocks. Step left and continue over to the left below the double crack system running vertically above you. (100')
Follow the seemingly endless twin cracks above you to a small roof. Pull this, then continue above the broken dike, climbing slightly to the left to a ledge. (140')
A bolt marks the third pitch. Climb off the ledge to a thin crack on your right. Pass the 1/4 inch bolt at a hard move, then place some small gear, and run it out (5.6ish, but heady) to the large left-facing corner capped by a roof. (160')
The roof move. A series of hard moves gets you to the base of the corner. Crank your way up and left over the roof past some loose flakes, and then climb up to the top of the cliff and anchor. (150')
About 70 feet to the right of the Bloody Mary corner is a major right-facing flake/crack behind a tree. This is the first pitch.
A full rack with doubles in the mid-size range (green through yellow Camalots), plus a wealth of nuts including a good selection of RPs or brass nuts.
Last pitch of Fastest Gun
Ethan Thompson on the 1st Pitch.
Janine C. on the amazing 4th pitch of Fastest Gun.
|Comments on The Fastest Gun
|By Derek Doucet|
Jun 9, 2010
P1 can be completely adaquately protected with nothing larger than a #3 camalot.
|By Jeffrey Gagliano|
From: Pennsburg, PA
Aug 22, 2010
One of the greatest routes you'll ever do. All four pitches are a must do, though the 2nd and fourth are especially memorable. The finger tip traverse under the giant roof on P4 is amazing!
|By Andrew Mertens|
From: Hanover, NH
Oct 13, 2010
I though the spicy bit of pitch 3 was actually getting to the bolt, not the climbing after it. I remember some tricky 5.8-5.9 moves getting to the bolt protected by a small gear, added to the fact that you are right above the belay. The climbing after the crux move is 5.6 at most, and I actually found a fair amount of gear. But awesome route. Every pitch is great but make sure you get the lead on pitch 2 and 4.
From: Keene Valley, NY
Aug 9, 2011
You can rappel off this route with one 70M rope. From the top of the last pitch scramble up 30 feet into the woods, go 150 feet climbers left above an obvious tree with rappel tat. Scramble down and 5 or six rappels will bring you to the ground.
|By Nick Weinberg|
From: Albany, NY
Nov 11, 2011
Good climb. 3rd pitch heady with questionable gear as I recall, but maybe easier climbing relative to the rest of the route.
|By burlap submariner|
Jan 8, 2012
did'nt this route used to be 9+, I like that its 10b now.
Sep 17, 2012
Just got through swinging leads on this one.
Each pitch has individual character and challenges every climbing skill...maintains grade for entire length. Protection is good...used everything from small brass stoppers to a Number 4 cam.
First pitch is amazing; second pitch is indescribable; third pitch is tech and if the three previous pitches were not enough...the fourth pitch is burly and delicate at the same time! I found that the undercling roof section on the fourth pitch was well protected and in fact, the easiest part of the entire route. Getting off the deck on the fourth pitch was just damn hard.
If the team is doing the entire route...don't stop at the belay/rap station at the end of the second pitch and freeze in the shade. Continue for another 20-30' up and left to a comfortable platform in the sun and with a bomber belay anchor and good visual access of the remaining route and climbing above.
A true Adirondack classic!