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The Moonstone
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The Faster We Go, The Rounder We Get 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 400', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Bob Branscomb, Ed DeLong 2007
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,032
Submitted By: bob branscomb on Feb 20, 2009

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Sticky situation MORE INFO >>>


A great small hold, friction route on beautiful, clean stone. Cruxes between the first and fourth bolts. Somewhat led-out but not terribly so. The step over the roof is stimulating also. The second pitch has a lot of 5.9 friction/small face as well. 60m rope is required and if you rappel the route, two 60m ropes are required.


This route is on the initial wall you encounter when first driving up to the Moonstone. It is the next route left of Floating World, going over the center-right end of the long roof. The second pitch proceeds straight up the trough above the first belay.


Bolts, 3/8" Fixx with Fixx ring rap anchors at belays. Take about 14 clips, including a couple of single length runners for the roof.

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