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DescriptionThe Far Side is mainly pocketed climbing on moderate steep steep faces. Its actually a bunch of ~50 foot rocks in one dense area, and none of them (to my knowledge) have been named, so we adress them in group. The climbing tends to be either extemely run out, or mixed bolts and trad... depending on your mindset and rack. Its a beautiful place that's far enough off the beaten path not see much traffic. Getting ThereAt the Bubble on the fire trail follow the trail starting slight left of the rock. It will take you gradually uphill for a mile, (above a couple other rocks with climbing potential, if you're interested). Finally, it will abruptly reach an odvious climbing area with Mills-Shute route directly in front of you. Its a great warm-up for the day, and about the best-protected climb in the area. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Far Side:
Baby Atlas (aka The Chickens are Restless) 5.8 Sport, 1 pitch, 40 feet
Shute-Mills Route 5.8 Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet
New Tradition 5.8 Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 75 feet
Seymour Frishberg 5.9 X Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet
Kola 5.9 Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet
Separation Anxiety 5.9+ Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 60 feet
5.9 5.10a Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 40 feet
The Chief 5.10c Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 30 feet
Atlas 5.10c R Sport, 1 pitch, 65 feet
Better Eat Your Wheaties 5.10d PG13 Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet
Featured Route For The Far Side
Kola 5.9 CA : SF Bay Area : ... : The Far Side
This steep slab route is on the highest spire at the Far Side. Airy exposure and breath taking views make you want to take extra rests on this Mt. St. Helena classic....[more] Browse More Classics in CA
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