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Elevation: 3,180 ft
GPS: 38.65135, -122.61794
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 104,474 total · 395/month
Shared By: Brian Quiter on Jun 22, 2002
Admins: Aron Quiter, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

Description Suggest change

The Far Side is mainly pocketed climbing on moderate steep steep faces. Its actually a bunch of 50 foot rocks in one dense area, and none of them (to my knowledge) have been named, so we address them in group. It's a beautiful place that's far enough off the beaten path not see much traffic.

Many of the early routes here were established by Ken Stanton and friends back in the '80s. This isn't a pure "sport" crag. Take some gear with you. There is often ample protection in the horizontal slots. Tri-cams and TCUs are helpful. With this in mind, the X ratings given many of these climbs seem excessive. Most routes do not have lower-off anchors. Its easy to set up top rope anchors for most climbs with long slings, and you can scramble to/from the anchors around the back.

The naming of the route "New Tradition" was meant to symbolize the new style (circa 2000) of bolting ethic this area deserves. I am happy to see this tradition taking hold. According to some comments, however, another new, new tradition is to upgrade the ratings for almost every climb out there.

If you like trad climbing, consider climbing "Tradfest II 5.9," a contrived "multipitch" adventure linking 7 moderate trad climbs on 6 pinnacles from the bottom to the top of The Far Side. A description and a link to a video are provided for the route "Tradfest."

Getting There Suggest change

The trail from The Bubble is about 1/2 mile up and down hill. Watch out for poison oak along the way- it is difficult to see, as it is mixed in with the various other deciduous species in the undergrowth you are meandering past and through. This and the occasional sharp branch dictate the favor of wearing long pants for this approach.

At the Bubble on the fire trail follow the trail starting slight left of the rock. It will take you gradually uphill for a mile (above a couple other rocks with climbing potential, if you're interested). Finally, it will abruptly reach an obvious climbing area with Shute-Mills Route directly in front of you. It's a great warm up for the day, and about the best-protected climb in the area.

52 Total Climbs

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Location: The Far Side Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at The Far Side

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 75
New Tradition
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 13
Tradfest
Trad 7 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 5
7up
Sport
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 103
Shute-Mills Route
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 39
Kola
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 16
Livin' on a Prayer
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 79
Mystery Hole
Sport, TR
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 23
Cereal Killer
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
 11
Atlas Shrugged
Sport, TR
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 15
The Chief
Sport, TR
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
 7
Atlas
Trad, TR
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
 17
Better Eat Your Wheaties
Trad, Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 8
Spellcaster
Sport
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
 8
Continental Drift Whiplash
Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 11
Boneless Chicken Ranch
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
New Tradition Shute-Mills Area
 75
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Tradfest Shute-Mills Area
 13
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 7 pitches
7up Kola Spire
 5
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Shute-Mills Route Shute-Mills Area
 103
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Kola Kola Spire
 39
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Livin' on a Prayer Shute-Mills Area
 16
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Mystery Hole Shute-Mills Area
 79
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport, TR
Cereal Killer Shute-Mills Area
 23
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Atlas Shrugged Shute-Mills Area
 11
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R Sport, TR
The Chief Shute-Mills Area
 15
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport, TR
Atlas Shute-Mills Area
 7
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R Trad, TR
Better Eat Your Wheaties Shute-Mills Area
 17
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 Trad, Sport
Spellcaster Lower Buttress
 8
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Continental Drift Whiplash Lower Buttress
 8
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c Trad
Boneless Chicken Ranch Lower Buttress
 11
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad
More Classic Climbs in The Far Side »

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