The Far Side Rock Climbing
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Elevation: | 3,180 ft |
GPS: |
38.65135, -122.61794 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
Page Views: | 104,474 total · 395/month |
Shared By: | Brian Quiter on Jun 22, 2002 |
Admins: | Aron Quiter, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Description
The Far Side is mainly pocketed climbing on moderate steep steep faces. Its actually a bunch of 50 foot rocks in one dense area, and none of them (to my knowledge) have been named, so we address them in group. It's a beautiful place that's far enough off the beaten path not see much traffic.
Many of the early routes here were established by Ken Stanton and friends back in the '80s. This isn't a pure "sport" crag. Take some gear with you. There is often ample protection in the horizontal slots. Tri-cams and TCUs are helpful. With this in mind, the X ratings given many of these climbs seem excessive. Most routes do not have lower-off anchors. Its easy to set up top rope anchors for most climbs with long slings, and you can scramble to/from the anchors around the back.
The naming of the route "New Tradition" was meant to symbolize the new style (circa 2000) of bolting ethic this area deserves. I am happy to see this tradition taking hold. According to some comments, however, another new, new tradition is to upgrade the ratings for almost every climb out there.
If you like trad climbing, consider climbing "Tradfest II 5.9," a contrived "multipitch" adventure linking 7 moderate trad climbs on 6 pinnacles from the bottom to the top of The Far Side. A description and a link to a video are provided for the route "Tradfest."
Many of the early routes here were established by Ken Stanton and friends back in the '80s. This isn't a pure "sport" crag. Take some gear with you. There is often ample protection in the horizontal slots. Tri-cams and TCUs are helpful. With this in mind, the X ratings given many of these climbs seem excessive. Most routes do not have lower-off anchors. Its easy to set up top rope anchors for most climbs with long slings, and you can scramble to/from the anchors around the back.
The naming of the route "New Tradition" was meant to symbolize the new style (circa 2000) of bolting ethic this area deserves. I am happy to see this tradition taking hold. According to some comments, however, another new, new tradition is to upgrade the ratings for almost every climb out there.
If you like trad climbing, consider climbing "Tradfest II 5.9," a contrived "multipitch" adventure linking 7 moderate trad climbs on 6 pinnacles from the bottom to the top of The Far Side. A description and a link to a video are provided for the route "Tradfest."
Getting There
The trail from The Bubble is about 1/2 mile up and down hill. Watch out for poison oak along the way- it is difficult to see, as it is mixed in with the various other deciduous species in the undergrowth you are meandering past and through. This and the occasional sharp branch dictate the favor of wearing long pants for this approach.
At the Bubble on the fire trail follow the trail starting slight left of the rock. It will take you gradually uphill for a mile (above a couple other rocks with climbing potential, if you're interested). Finally, it will abruptly reach an obvious climbing area with Shute-Mills Route directly in front of you. It's a great warm up for the day, and about the best-protected climb in the area.
At the Bubble on the fire trail follow the trail starting slight left of the rock. It will take you gradually uphill for a mile (above a couple other rocks with climbing potential, if you're interested). Finally, it will abruptly reach an obvious climbing area with Shute-Mills Route directly in front of you. It's a great warm up for the day, and about the best-protected climb in the area.
Classic Climbing Routes at The Far Side
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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