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 ADVANCED
Sugarloaf, East Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Beast of Burden S 
Bird Man S 
Blue Velvet T,S 
Captain Fingers T 
Crushed Velvet T 
Dominion T 
East Chimney T 
East Face, The T 
Falcon, The S 
Fang-Left Side, The T 
Farley T 
Fracture, The T 
Gallows Pole (direct) T,S 
Grand Illusion T 
Harding's Chimney T 
Lady Luck T 
Lurch T 
Mini-Illusion, The S 
Monkey Flower T,S 
Morticia T 
Opus 7 S 
Over the Edge T 
Pinch a Loaf S 
Scheister T 
South Summit Bolt Ladder S 
Stone T 
Swallow Tail T,S 
Talking Heads T 
Tapestry T 
Taurus T 
Telesis S 

The Fang-Left Side 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: FFA: Jim Orey, M. Vincent, 1971
Page Views: 855
Submitted By: Blitzo on Jan 31, 2007

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Description 

The Fang is a small pinnacle to the right of "Bolee Gold".
Boulder up onto the ramp of "Bolee Gold", then climb a 5.9 finger crack, and enter a chimney, forming the left side of the pinnacle.
Rappel from bolts or continue up "Harding's Chimney".

Protection 

Pro to 2".


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By vincent L.
From: Redwood City
Apr 26, 2009

The crux is working up the short crack at the start. Solid finger locks lead to a couple insecure pods. Jam those real good , try to get a toe in the thin crack , and reach high for a solid hand jam . The short chimney is fun and you make an airy exit onto easy face climbing up to the anchor.

You can TR various bolted routes from the anchor.

It is a fun climb.
By Weston L
From: Summerlin, NV
Jan 18, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Climbed it today, a bat lives in there. Heard strange noises, cross-referenced with youtube, confirmed the noises i heard squeaking at me were a bat.

Super fun route. No sighting of the bat, but I suspect he lives in the 4" crack in the back of the chimney...