The Falls starts 100' down directly below the observation deck on the stream bed beside two large fallen logs. This climb is actually on the left side of the waterfall and can easily be reached by walking down from the right side of the water falls climbs. The crux starts right off the ground and continues right to the first bolt 15' up. Pretty bold lead unless you are a solid 5.11 climber! The remainer of the climb eases off to 5.6 - 5.8 and meanders a bit from bolt to bolt to the top. The spacing off the bolts is quite far apart and makes for a pretty intimidating lead. Don't lose concentration until you are actually standing up on top holding onto the observation deck support bars as the last few moves are quite hard and you are about 10' above the last bolt!
6 bolts to observation deck support anchors. The first bolt is 15' off the ground with the crux about 8-10' up. The landing is not great. One could stick clip the first bolt, climb to it from the right using second bolt as protection to get to it, or clip as you rappel down. The remainder of the climb is fairly continuous 5.6 - 5.8 on runout terrain! Trad gear poor.
4th bolt (or fifth if you're counting the rusting, loose 1/4") is only hand-tight. I didn't have any tools with me to tighten it so a local guy/gal may want to do so (I was just passing through and probably won't be back soon to do it myself!).
By Paul Rezucha From: Alameda Sep 19, 2004 rating: 5.10d6b+21VII+21E3 5b
This climb is rated 10a in Tresa Black's Rock Climbing the San Francisco Bay Area guide book. This climb is much harder than 5.10a.I've been told hard 5.10 or easy 11 and I would have to agree with this. There are no indications of broken holds. With the first bolt 15' off the ground, this makes for a scary V3 or V4 boulder problem. Only one fairly hard move after the first bolt then the route eases off in difficulty all the way to the top. All in all a bold lead even on the easier ground.
By Paul Rezucha From: Alameda Jul 25, 2005 rating: 5.10d6b+21VII+21E3 5b
I see on the BayAreaClimbers website that this route is 5.8 by traversing in from the right side. It also shows many bolts all the way up to the top. This is not the case as the last two bolts are very far apart and the runout to the top is quite long too! Unless you feel very comfortable with long runouts on thin face smearing this is not a good climb to lead if you are climbing in the 5.8 or 5.9 range. It is a pretty intimidating lead! Any comments on the difficulty of the direct start? It certainly seems much harder than 10a!
I have just climbed this route last weekend and I totally agree with Paul's comments regarding the hard start. There is absolutely no way this is a 10a (and no I'm not just a gym rat ;) ).The first three moves probably make for a V3-V4 boulder problem. Getting off the ground is already pretty tough, but then you have to basically dyno (with no good feet) to a small edge that is quite a longreach (unless you have a +10inch ape index), beforeyou can finally get a good rest on the next hold.
The climb does ease off afterwards but the holds towards the last 10-20 feet or so are pretty thin which certainly makes it harder than 5.8 (even by Castle Rock slab standards). So even if you skip the hard start and traverse from the right side, don't expect a 5.8 lead. I'd say 5.10a if you skip the bottom start and solid 5.11 if you start from the bottom.
When I did this route (maybe 1996?) The last bolt wasn't installed, it was more like a 25 ft. runout to the top. I tried to go straight up some thin crimps and blew the mantle topout, took a nice 50+ footer onto what was then the last bolt. I think it was a bit easier to do a move left to finish (just keep your balance!).
Otherwise, I remember the start being "sporty" but not that hard to boulder out. It's been a bit, but we felt it was 10a (just feels scary without clipping first). Maybe the route changed?
By Aron Quiter Administrator From: Oakland, CA Jan 5, 2008
On Sandstone? You're lucky to be telling the story. Good job Bruce (et al!)
Clipped the first bolt on rappel, good thing to, because I couldn't get up the first section without falling a couple times. It was cold and the creek was flowing heavily, so spray from the falls moistened the route. Very scary leading the upper slab, but I pulled through! Might want to try on toprope first, then go for the lead.
By Daniel Trugman From: Los Alamos, NM / Stanford, CA Oct 2, 2009 rating: 5.10c6b20VII20E2 5b PG13
Yeah, the start seemed tough for the grade, and likely gets exponentially tougher if you are shorter. At my (average) height, a committing deadpoint solved the crux. I'm not so sure it's in the V3-V4 range, more like V2 at most. The rest of the route is easier but always hard enough to make the 20 foot runouts really spooky! A calm 5.10 leader shouldn't have too much difficulty with the upper section.
R-rated lead if you don't stick clip, probably more like PG-13 if you use one.
Climbed this yesterday. 1. First bolt on the traverse in from the right has the bolt coming 1-2 inches out of the rock and has been bent down by the bolter (I assume) I do not know how (if any) to access the amount of bolt fixed and set beneath the surface. 2. Second bolt is a rusting button head with a smc hangar. The stone around the base of the bolt is wearing away and the bolt is not that secure in the hole (moving a bit) 3. Third bolt seems fine 4. Fourth bolt needs to have the nut tightened as it was loose and I had to finger tighten it but did not have the tools to tighten it any more. 5. Fifth bolt seem fine. 6. I seem to remember a 6th bolt back in 2007 when i last climbed this but could not find a bolt hole to confirm this. I def do not remember it being as runout as it currently is. 7. The runout between the 4th 5th bolt (as well as topout) are incredibly runout as well as have a a nasty swing (for second as well.) A fall at the final bolt could yield a landing on the bulges and ledges below.
Does anyone know the rebolting regulations for Castle Rock park?
yeah my buddy and I toproped the falls a few weeks ago and used a damn stick to get past that first head scratcher section. it was cool setting up the anchor off the lookout post and rappelling down
By presto From: Prescott, AZ Mar 15, 2012 rating: 5.10-6a18VI+18E1 5a PG13
Definitely not any harder start then 10a, the first bolt is not as far off the deck as people are implying, and while the moves may be scary, they are definitely not even v2. Either that or groom creek (az) has jaded my impressions.
I saw the stick someone used to skip the first few moves. We removed it. Just have your belayer spot you. Definitely not R rated, pg13 at the most.
Runouts on the slab are negligible due to secure and easy 5.8 slab work, and none of the falls come close to ground falls.
I would recommend a tricam in a pocket between the finial two bolts if you are concerned. With trad draws on the first few bolts of the slab section, and a 10ft extension of my anchor from the platform, a 60m rope can reach the bottom with a few feet to spare. There is a rusty hanger, but it is a reasonable distance between solid bolts.
Okay, I just came from waterfalls, and it's definitely not 10a start - 15 years ago maybe it was. First few moves felt at least V2 - so I would put 11a for direct start. After you get to the slopey shelf, it easies off to maybe 10a until first bolt, then it's steady 5.8-5.9 slab to the top.
I just did it yesterday. The start didn't feel like a 5.10a to me, but I'm really bad at judging grades. I wouldn't say it was a v4 start, but not having a crash pad or a nice landing spot made for an interesting mental game. The rest is easier, but delicate in sections. There were more than a few delicate moves were I felt I had to be really careful, combine that with the runouts and it certainly makes it feel harder than a 5.10a. IMO it's just mental, but there're not really hard moves. Tri-cams would've helped. Also the end was interesting. I went straight up from the last bolt. I think it was easier on the left. I'm just happy I didn't blew the mantle as Tevis Bloom. That would've been a long fall I didn't feel like taking.