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The higher you go, the tougher it gets. Some cool hand jams down low and then some balancy moves on small, slopey holds towards the top. Resist the temptation to chicken out and exit off the right side!
5 bolts to a 2 chain anchor. On p.32 of the Golden Cliffs: Colorado this route is mislabeled as "Natural Fact."
|Photos of The Fabulous Flying Carrs Route Slideshow
Chuck Graves approaches the crux. The 11a stays to...
The top moves are tricky.
Trying not to fly.
|Comments on The Fabulous Flying Carrs Route
|By Edward Jenner|
Jan 1, 2001
Ed Jenner - Good climb for those trying to lead .11 - well positioned bolts and an easy bailout option. Tip - use a toe jam to clip the last bolt.
|By Ernie Port|
From: Boulder, Colorado
Jul 1, 2002
In Rossiter's guide book, the rendering of this route is mislabelled (7) under the drawing. After dubious pondering from the ground, I made an attempt anyway coming up one clip short of the goal. Feeling this was way burly for a (7) warmup, I bailed to the chimney on the right and scrambled up the last 10' to set a tope rope. My partner was then informed of its true rating and yelled up to me that the climb is 10d/11a. The top rope can also be used for the interesting (7) chimmney/stemming problem to the left.
|By Tony B|
From: Around Boulder, CO
Nov 13, 2008
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ E3 5c
Slippery in warm weather.
|By Andrew Riley|
From: Cox's Bazar, Bangladesh
Jan 21, 2012
There's a great kneebar with a no hands rest right before the crux.
|By Dwight Jugornot|
From: Arvada, Co.
Apr 15, 2013
There really are two radically different routes here. Stay to the right (still out on the face, not in the gully) and it is an unremarkable 5.9 or so. If you stay on the face left and center, it is a quality 5.11a/b. I don't normally give stars to a "contrived" route, but the moves on the face out left are really cool. Body position, strength, technicality - good stuff.