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> Northwest Region
> Hwy 20 & N Casc…
> N Cascades
> Washington Pass
> M&M Wall (Supercave)
The Exorcism of Mark Hanna
5.11a YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 3 from 1
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Routes in M&M Wall (Supercave)
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Ellen Pea T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Exorcism of Mark Hanna, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Golden Age T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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L & H Route (Free Variation), The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Tiger, The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 300 ft (91 m), 3 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | Thad Nelson, Mark Hanna, Daniel Reed |
| Page Views: | 2,099 total · 15/month |
| Shared By: | CameraisHeavy on Sep 24, 2012 |
| Admins: | Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters |
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Access Issue: Washington Pass Fire Closure Lifted
Details
Washington Pass Climbing was closed on 8/15/23 due to the Blue Lake Fire until further notice. On 9/7/23 this closure was reduced in size. On 9/22 this was reduced again, opening all WA Climbing Routes. For remaining closures, see:
fs.usda.gov/alerts/okawen/a…
fs.usda.gov/alerts/okawen/a…
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure at Newhalem Crags March 1st to mid-July
Details
Peregrine falcons select nest sites on cliffs in the Upper Skagit Valley, including the Climbing Management Areas of Newhalem West (Ryan’s Wall) and Newhalem East. As required in the NPS Superintendent’s Compendium, these areas will be closed to all public from March 1st to July 15th of each year, or until the young falcons have fledged or NPS staff have determined that nesting will not occur on a specific wall during this period. Access Fund, Washington Climbers Coalition and NPS partner on a volunteer raptor monitoring program to determine nesting activity. Contact the NPS and/or WCC for updates.
Description
There are two distinct cruxes that are both on the second pitch. If desired this route could be french freed at 5.10a.
Pitch 1. 5.6
From the belay bolt head up using cracks for small pro and bolts.
Pitch 2. 5.11a or (5.9 A0)
A short slab section leads to steep cool overlaps full of interesting balance problems.
Pitch 3. 5.10a
After clipping the first two bolts climb the crack then head to the right over a small arrete to the anchors.
Pitch 1. 5.6
From the belay bolt head up using cracks for small pro and bolts.
Pitch 2. 5.11a or (5.9 A0)
A short slab section leads to steep cool overlaps full of interesting balance problems.
Pitch 3. 5.10a
After clipping the first two bolts climb the crack then head to the right over a small arrete to the anchors.
Protection
Standard rack to 1". Quickdraws and Runners. This route is designed to rappel with one 70 meter rope.
Location
Park at milepost 166 (3 miles east of hairpin), make for the talus at base of supercave gully directly uphill (north) from highway.
hike up gully until forced left, then back into gully.
When you approach the apron below M&M Wall on the right side of the gully a keen eye will spot a belay bolt on a small ledge. This route is more or less directly under Ellen Pea and could be used as access to or from this route if desired.
hike up gully until forced left, then back into gully.
When you approach the apron below M&M Wall on the right side of the gully a keen eye will spot a belay bolt on a small ledge. This route is more or less directly under Ellen Pea and could be used as access to or from this route if desired.
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