|979 page views|
|Type: ||Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 75 feet|
|Consensus: ||5.11a/b [details]|
|FA: ||Rob Griz, Brian Pappas, Elias Martos|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Submitted By: ||Rob Griz on Oct 4, 2010|
BETA PHOTO: Pulling the roof finish.
The Exfoliator follows the massive, inside, overhanging arete on White Cliff. Begin at the steep base of the arete (get the first high bolt by stemming off the slab) and let the pump begin. First crux is between bolts 1 and 2. Follow the overhanging face passing the blunt arete (2nd crux) to the roof. Stem wide, pull the roof, and run it up on easy slab incuts to the chain anchor. Two rests are possible by pulling over the arete on stances. Sustained and super enjoyable, don't let it Exfoliate you!
Due to the proximity of the slab below, if you were to fall in the first half of the route, you will come close to the slab, have an alert belayer! If you are a 2nd, cleaning the route, you could swing down into the slab, again, have an alert belayer. This route is NOT recommended to toprope, you may crater into the slab, guaranteed. As the route name suggests, there is a lot of flakey stuff on the route, much of which I'd like to think I've cleaned. Some remains. The fin of rock between bolts 3-4 is pretty solid, yet still a fin. Climb through this with some care.
Follow the White Cliff trail to the apron, head up left, and it will be the huge, obvious, left-leaning corner/arete.
10 bolts to a top chain anchor. Well protected.
Stanly heading up the start.
An idea of the line heading into the 2nd crux on t...
Setting the final bolts through the roof exit. I ...
A perspective of the overhanging nature of the lin...
The final move.
Nice day for a climb, Griz.
Griz clipping the last bolt before pulling over th...
The start has some really nice moves.
|Comments on The Exfoliator
|By Rob Griz|
Aug 25, 2011
A key block in the final moves below the roof, on the inside corner, is loose. We may try to epoxy the small block in as it is a critical part of the route. Pull on it with ease.