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White Cliff
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The Exfoliator 

YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 75'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Rob Griz, Brian Pappas, Elias Martos
New Route: Yes
Season: Spring-Summer-Fall
Page Views: 1,535
Submitted By: Rob Griz on Oct 4, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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The start has some really nice moves.

Description 

The Exfoliator follows the massive, inside, overhanging arete on White Cliff. Begin at the steep base of the arete (get the first high bolt by stemming off the slab) and let the pump begin. First crux is between bolts 1 and 2. Follow the overhanging face passing the blunt arete (2nd crux) to the roof. Stem wide, pull the roof, and run it up on easy slab incuts to the chain anchor. Two rests are possible by pulling over the arete on stances. Sustained and super enjoyable, don't let it Exfoliate you!

Due to the proximity of the slab below, if you were to fall in the first half of the route, you will come close to the slab, have an alert belayer! If you are a 2nd, cleaning the route, you could swing down into the slab, again, have an alert belayer. This route is NOT recommended to toprope, you may crater into the slab, guaranteed. As the route name suggests, there is a lot of flakey stuff on the route, much of which I'd like to think I've cleaned. Some remains. The fin of rock between bolts 3-4 is pretty solid, yet still a fin. Climb through this with some care.

Location 

Follow the White Cliff trail to the apron, head up left, and it will be the huge, obvious, left-leaning corner/arete.

Protection 

10 bolts to a top chain anchor. Well protected.


Photos of The Exfoliator Slideshow Add Photo
Griz clipping the last bolt before pulling over the arete.
Griz clipping the last bolt before pulling over th...
Nice day for a climb, Griz.
Nice day for a climb, Griz.
An idea of the line heading into the 2nd crux on the blunt arete.
An idea of the line heading into the 2nd crux on t...
Stanly heading up the start.
Stanly heading up the start.
The final move.
The final move.
Pulling the roof finish.
BETA PHOTO: Pulling the roof finish.
Setting the final bolts through the roof exit.  I tried to push the route further up the arete, but a huge, questionable flake and contrived climbing forced me to finish the line.  The finish exits the roof/corner just to the right of me, drill and hammer seen hanging from the last bolt.
Setting the final bolts through the roof exit. I ...
A perspective of the overhanging nature of the line.
A perspective of the overhanging nature of the lin...

Comments on The Exfoliator Add Comment
Show which comments
By Rob Griz
From: Frisco
Aug 25, 2011

A key block in the final moves below the roof, on the inside corner, is loose. We may try to epoxy the small block in as it is a critical part of the route. Pull on it with ease.
By Seth Hogan
From: Frisco, Co
Aug 7, 2013

I sort of thought this route was a bit contrived. With that said, awesome climbing with route finding being the crux after the second bolt.
By Jeff R. Hansen
Sep 23, 2013

Is anyone else feeling like stemming at all should be off? My buddy and I didn't use the slab at the bottom for the first bolt or the wall on the left for the last bolt as we thought that was part of the 10b only.