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Jailhouse Rock
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The Exercise Yard 

5.10c

   
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Type: Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 30 feet
Consensus: 5.10b/c [details]
FA: JSt, EMk, L
New Route: Yes
Season: Fall, winter, spring
Submitted By: Jimbo on Dec 10, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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X marks the spot photo by Tyler Gates

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Description 

Climb the overhanging central crack to the ring anchors. Lower off and toprope the face to the right then the face to the left. Makes for 90 feet of very steep climbing on big holds. The perfect warmup for the hard routes on Jail House.
I can't believe no one has led this crack but I could not find any record of it.
If you decide to walk around to the top to set up a TR be very careful of the boulders perched precariously above the chains. If you decide to trundle them, realize you'll need to roll them away from perfect sandy landing at the start of the climbs.


Location 

On a small, very steep, formation a hundred yards down stream from Jail House. Climbs start right off the sandy creek bottom.


Protection 

Cams, stoppers, bolts on left hand route, chains



Photos of The Exercise Yard Slideshow Add Photo
Derek on gear, Photo by Jeff B.

Derek on gear, Photo by Jeff B.


Comments on The Exercise Yard Add Comment
Show which comments
By 1Eric Rhicard
Mar 6, 2007

This rock is only 100 yards at most down stream and has a lot of fun jug hauling despite being so short. Lead the sport route then TR the crack and the face right of it and you have a great warm up.

By Braxtron
From: ...
Mar 25, 2007
rating: 5.10

It may not have been necessary, but I added a description for the sport route on this rock Here. If the route has a better name than the one I chose, I'll gladly change it.

By joshf
From: missoula, mt
Nov 17, 2009

Randy Baum (and others I'm sure) soloed this rock before any bolts were in it...thought it was fun bouldering