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The Evolution of Climbing Protection
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By Bill Sacks
From Sacramento, CA
Nov 25, 2012
Chapel Pond
I will be giving a final presentation tomorrow for a "design" class and was able to choose any topic. Instead of talking about architecture or art like everyone else, why not BS about climbing gear. Here is the Prezi for those who are interested. Feedback tonight is appreciated as I still have time to make edits.

Here it is...

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By A.Javi.Gecko
From San Diego, CA
Nov 25, 2012
V3, Castle Hill, NZ
Hey Bill,

Nice slides and fun interesting transitions. My input would be asking this question:

why do you show each slide overview before AND after the zoom-ins. If its just a cap on either side of the sections its fine but I know that I always feel pressed for time, so why not erase dead time and go from main slide to close up to the next section (skipping redundancy).

Also, since its a design class, it COULD be interesting to show (and discuss) a slide comparing the way active vs passive pro interacts with the rock (I'm sure a diagram is available online somewhere). Then you could confuse people by showing a tricam and asking the class if its design qualifies as active, passive, or both ;)

Finally, you could add a slide about pre-piton protection (e.g. knots and chock stones) or talk about the design and significant safety improvements of dynamic vs static rope.

Hope that helps

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By Bill Sacks
From Sacramento, CA
Nov 25, 2012
Chapel Pond
A.Javi.Gecko wrote:
Hey Bill, Nice slides and fun interesting transitions. My input would be asking this question: why do you show each slide overview before AND after the zoom-ins. If its just a cap on either side of the sections its fine but I know that I always feel pressed for time, so why not erase dead time and go from main slide to close up to the next section (skipping redundancy). Also, since its a design class, it COULD be interesting to show (and discuss) a slide comparing the way active vs passive pro interacts with the rock (I'm sure a diagram is available online somewhere). Then you could confuse people by showing a tricam and asking the class if its design qualifies as active, passive, or both ;) Finally, you could add a slide about pre-piton protection (e.g. knots and chock stones) or talk about the design and significant safety improvements of dynamic vs static rope. Hope that helps


Thanks for the comments. I like showing the overviews before AND after each slide because it helps me remember where I am in the presentation and allows me to re-cap the material before introducing the next "slide".

I will discuss active vs passive pro when the slides are up. I find that it is helpful to have material to talk about without having a slide for it. That way if I need time fillers I can mention it, but I am not just skipping through slides if I am short on time.

I like the idea of talking about knots and introducing chock stones before mentioning wired/slung nuts.

Before the presentation I am going to hand out some old nuts/carabiners that I have recovered on some climbs along with some C3s and C4s so people can play around and have something else to keep their attention.

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By Martin le Roux
From Superior, CO
Nov 25, 2012
Stairway to Heaven
Nuts and their like predate Hexcentrics and Stoppers by at least 20 years. Machine nuts were used as climbing protection in the 1950s. Nuts made specifically for climbing date back to the 1960s (e.g. MOACs). See needlesports.com/NeedleSports/....

What about the equipment that's used at the other end of the rope (body belays, Sticht plates & their descendants, GriGris etc.)? Might be helpful to mention this if your audience doesn't know anything about climbing.

FLAG
By Bill Sacks
From Sacramento, CA
Nov 25, 2012
Chapel Pond
Martin le Roux wrote:
Nuts and their like predate Hexcentrics and Stoppers by at least 20 years. Machine nuts were used as climbing protection in the 1950s. Nuts made specifically for climbing date back to the 1960s (e.g. MOACs). See needlesports.com/NeedleSports/.... What about the equipment that's used at the other end of the rope (body belays, Sticht plates & their descendants, GriGris etc.)? Might be helpful to mention this if your audience doesn't know anything about climbing.


Good point. I'll just end up bringing my entire rack so I can demonstrate a quick belay using some extra rope and my ATC so that people actually understand the purpose of placing protection. I have to focus on the "minimalistic" and "high-tech" segments because those are the styles I am relating to the gear.

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By Jim Titt
From Germany
Nov 26, 2012
Bolts were in use in the 1870īs, nuts in the mid 1960īs, jammed knots from ca 1900, slings from 1850īs.

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By Bill Sacks
From Sacramento, CA
Nov 26, 2012
Chapel Pond
Just presented. People liked playing with cams and the professor was pleased to not have to listen to another person talk about the same art she sees every semester.

FLAG


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