The Evictor offers one of the best difficult all-gear leads in the area. Many people jump on it on toprope from the Center Route anchors (please toprope through QDs and not directly off the anchor). It was originally led with the gear in place, but it has seen many ascents with all gear placed on the lead burn, usually after toprope prep. Watch Cameron Tague go ground up and take repeated whippers off it in the Scary Faces video- you will see absolutely no fear in his eyes.
Begin at the Center Route, but head left at an obvious downward-pointed flake. Now climb unprotected rock to the overlap, place gear and rest (last OK stance). Now pull on fingertip jams, and barge into the sustained climbing above. The crux is protected, if you can hang around to place the gear, but there is a bit of excitement both below and after the hardest moves.
As I lack the guts to uprate a route under my real name, I'm posting under the honorable title of AC. I have to call sandbagging for who ever said this is 12c on lead, placing gear. Maybe 12c on toprope. This thing is 12d placing gear and hard at the grade. If you have led it in good style, please feel free to correct me.
And now for the sameless spraying for my buddy Ted Lanzano (as he won't do it himself). He crushed this on lead yesterday. The last stopper he was too pumped to place properly so he just clipped it and sprinted for the top. Getting wobbley at the top and looking at a 30+ foot whipper, he sucked it up and snagged the finishing jug. Absolutely inspiring performance. You Lanzano boys are the shit!
FWIW, this route has seen at least a dozen redpoints over the past year or two, many by non-5.13 climbers. Not sure if that adds anything to the grade debate or not, but it does update some of the information in the description
All trad pro, continuously sustained climbing, solid 5.12+. This route has deservedly become an Eldo benchmark over the years and opened the door for many climbers to the more difficult 5.13 lines to its left (Freeline, Frayed line, Surfs Up). I'd call it a new classic and the best 5.12 trad pitch in the state; would anyone nominate a better one?
By Hank Caylor Administrator From: Golden, CO Mar 5, 2007
Evictor is a great one, no doubt. As far as the best, 5.12, 1 pitch, crack climb in the State goes, it's "Transgression 12b" in the Flatirons. Just do 85% of "Death and Transfiguration" and keep cranking it out to the right, very obvious and pumpy. Transgression is better than the Evictor. IMNSHO........
The crux for me is before the finger/tip jams. The rests on this route are decent enough that I'd call this 5.12 leading in project style (i.e. with all the move/gear beta). Onsight/flash would be much more difficult.
Not sure where the R rating comes from (pre cam days?) The route accepts mix of good active and passive gear.
By Dusty From: Fort Collins Jan 19, 2009 rating: 5.12d7c28IX28E6 6b R
I believe Alex Honnold got the first true onsight of this route last weekend. Same goes for the three routes to the left.
Edit: I think this route gets the R rating for the 5.10 run-out at the bottom. If you have the energy to stop and place, the rest of the climb can be sewn up.
I was at the Evictor on Sunday, and I discovered that I'm missing 3 cams: an orange Metolius, a 0.3 C4 and a 0.4 C4. They're all pretty worked and either have Wild Country Xenon biners or new Camp biners on them (guessing the orange has a WC biner and the BD cams have the Camp biners, but I'm not 100%).
There were two other guys up there at the base with us (I think one is named Aaron?), their stuff was spread out on the rock, I'm sure my cams just got mixed up in the pile, and my bad for not checking. So if one of you reads this and is one of the guys that was up there, or if someone knows them, would you mind sending me a message or calling?