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FA: | Dale Goddard |
Page Views: | 27,088 total · 93/month |
Shared By: | Steve Levin on Jan 7, 2001 · Updates |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Description
The Evictor is THE classic 5.12 in Eldo. Heady, technical, and deceptively physical, this route has it all. This one has a reputation for being dangerous, although it dumbs down after toprope inspection (the preferred method by most) and the gear is quite good in most places. A fall from the finishing sequence is big but safe.
Start in the layback dihedral of Center Route to the hanging tooth feature. Place good gear, and punch left through the first runout (5.10 R). You are flirting with a groundfall at this point, but the climbing is relatively tame, and a good belay could keep you off the deck. Reach a good rest at the overlap, and place gear.
From the rest, punch up into the the meat of the route. Technical moves with good gear leads a semi-strenuous stance with a couple of underclings and your last piece of gear. From here, enter the route’s crux. Good beta and body tension are the name of the game. Once in the final finger lock, take a deep breath, and navigate the final moves to the top with your final piece of gear well below your feet. Grab the finishing jug, easily pull up to the anchor. Hot damn.
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