This is an excellent route. It is the first line I ever noticed driving up the canyon. The approach is short but undesireable which detracts a little from the quality, but this is the SSV! I give it three stars comparing it to other routes in the SSV canyon. Less if you compare it to Boulder Canyon but....
From the top of Rapids Rock, you can reach the lone bolt on top by walking toward the river, and stepping around and down a few piled boulders. Back up the bolt with a meduim hex or larger Camalot, and rap off the slab. You will reach a two bolt anchor, mid cliff. From that anchor a 50m rope will just touch the river (6 inches of our rope got wet). 20 feet up from the river there is a lone bolt, which can be backed up with an Alien or TCU. I didn't try a nut.
Our strategy was to rap using a 50 meter rope, and climb using a separate rope on our back, so we didn't have to worry about pulling our rope into the river. We left the rope in the mid anchors, and just pushed it to the side. If you have one rope and have to pull it, Bernard Gillett suggests placing a few pieces on rap,and clipping the rope in. Pull the rope Gym style. Think River Wall CCC....
If not already discouraged, now to the route!
P1. Climb up the dihedral, place a piece, and pull around to the face. Work up using both cracks and some amazing face holds. Place a final piece (mine stunk!), stem both cracks, and fire to easy terrain. Small cams are a life-saver on this pitch, Nuts are a little tricky to place.
P2. Climb up a few feet, place a piece at the horizontal, and choose a way up to the ledge. The left is easiest but dirty, center hardest. We went right with one grunt move. Any pro above the horizonal will cause much drag. (I guess you could place a small piece and pull it after the move). Jam up the interesting crack to the top. You can get off fingers, hands, fists, whatever!
Pitch 1: Aliens, TCUs, #1 Camalot, a few stoppers. Pitch 2: stoppers, #0.75 to #3 Camalot. Top anchor: one bolt, medium hex or #3, 3.5 Camalot. Middle anchor: 2 bolts. Bottom anchor; 1 bolt, red, yellow TCU/Alien.
|Comments on The Enthusiast aka Guided by Voices
From: Pinewood Springs
Sep 23, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
As an variation you can go left at the second OH, I removed the loose boulder.
|By George Bracksieck|
Sep 24, 2012
I think first pitch is 5.9+. Crack with the pods, on p.2, is also.