Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Junkyard Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Ann's Revenge T 
Antropov's Cold T,TR 
Bubba Meets Jesus T,TR 
Cave Routes 1 and 2 TR 
Churning in the Huecos T 
Contortionist, The T 
Distortionist, The T 
Entertainer, The T,TR 
Enteruptus T 
Four Sheets to the Wind T 
Jumping Jack Flash T 
JunkYard Dog (JYD) T,S 
Keep it Tight but Don't Give Me AIDS T,TR 
Mr. Ed T 
New River Gunks T,TR 
New Yosemite T,TR 
Nine Lives T 
Rapscallion's Blues T 
Reachers of Habit S 
Reaching New Heights (New River Gunks Direct) T 
Realignment (Entertainer direct), The T,TR 
Rhododenema T 
Scott's Turf Builder T 
Stuck In Another Dimension T 
Team Jesus T 
V-Slot T 
Who Knows? T 
Yew Nosemite T 

The Entertainer 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Love, Howard '84
Page Views: 4,686
Submitted By: Ladd Raine on Apr 10, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (75)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Jamming through the roof

Description 

Awesome jams and locks make this route a classic at the grade.
Better learn how to hand jam before attemping a lead on this climb, because if you don't you'll make the beginning into a 5.12 sufferfest.
Ignore the jug out right and take the crack head on, pull the mini-roof and gain a ledge, protect well and continue up and then left following obvious crack system to the anchors.

Location 

Route far left of Reachers of Habit and New River Gunks

Protection 

Stnd. rack, #2 camalot for the bottom crux, mixed gear the rest of the way. Lots of good gear.


Photos of The Entertainer Slideshow Add Photo
Ladd Raine making one of the fun upper moves on this super classic line.
Ladd Raine making one of the fun upper moves on th...
The Entertainer (5.10a). Junkyard Wall, New River Gorge, WV.
BETA PHOTO: The Entertainer (5.10a). Junkyard Wall, New River ...
Ladd Raine messing with some gear on the upper section of The Entertainer.
Ladd Raine messing with some gear on the upper sec...
In to the fun edges section
In to the fun edges section

Comments on The Entertainer Add Comment
Show which comments
By Shannon Millsaps
May 6, 2010

I found a big snake skin in the second fat horizontal.
By Shawn Heath
Administrator
From: Forchheim, Germany
Aug 3, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

If you don't have much jamming experience, go run a few laps on New Yosemite, then come back to this one. The beginning is great and is a little challenging, but it eases up significantly after that.
By Jake Jones
From: Richmond, VA
Oct 23, 2013

I really enjoyed this one. The bottom to me was not that much more difficult than NY, just more sequence dependent. I also used the "jug" to the right for a foot, not a hand. I found the diagonal crack leading to the left vertical crack to be just as challenging as gaining the ledge. From there, it backs off quite a bit with the exception of one thin move up high. A really great route, but it's more like 60ft, not 80.