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Junkyard Wall
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Realignment (Entertainer direct), The 
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The Entertainer 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Love, Howard '84
Page Views: 4,129
Submitted By: Ladd Raine on Apr 10, 2007
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Ladd Raine messing with some gear on the upper sec...

Description 

Awesome jams and locks make this route a classic at the grade.
Better learn how to hand jam before attemping a lead on this climb, because if you don't you'll make the beginning into a 5.12 sufferfest.
Ignore the jug out right and take the crack head on, pull the mini-roof and gain a ledge, protect well and continue up and then left following obvious crack system to the anchors.


Location 

Route far left of Reachers of Habit and New River Gunks


Protection 

Stnd. rack, #2 camalot for the bottom crux, mixed gear the rest of the way. Lots of good gear.



Photos of The Entertainer Slideshow Add Photo
The Entertainer (5.10a). Junkyard Wall, New River Gorge, WV.
BETA PHOTO: The Entertainer (5.10a). Junkyard Wall, New River ...
Ladd Raine making one of the fun upper moves on this super classic line.
Ladd Raine making one of the fun upper moves on th...
Jamming through the roof
Jamming through the roof
Comments on The Entertainer Add Comment
Show which comments
By Shannon Millsaps
May 6, 2010

I found a big snake skin in the second fat horizontal.

By Shawn Heath
Administrator
From: Forchheim, Germany
Aug 3, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

If you don't have much jamming experience, go run a few laps on New Yosemite, then come back to this one. The beginning is great and is a little challenging, but it eases up significantly after that.

By Jake Jones
From: The Eastern Flatlands
Oct 23, 2013

I really enjoyed this one. The bottom to me was not that much more difficult than NY, just more sequence dependent. I also used the "jug" to the right for a foot, not a hand. I found the diagonal crack leading to the left vertical crack to be just as challenging as gaining the ledge. From there, it backs off quite a bit with the exception of one thin move up high. A really great route, but it's more like 60ft, not 80.