Ladd Raine messing with some gear on the upper sec...
Awesome jams and locks make this route a classic at the grade. Better learn how to hand jam before attemping a lead on this climb, because if you don't you'll make the beginning into a 5.12 sufferfest. Ignore the jug out right and take the crack head on, pull the mini-roof and gain a ledge, protect well and continue up and then left following obvious crack system to the anchors.
Route far left of Reachers of Habit and New River Gunks
Stnd. rack, #2 camalot for the bottom crux, mixed gear the rest of the way. Lots of good gear.
I really enjoyed this one. The bottom to me was not that much more difficult than NY, just more sequence dependent. I also used the "jug" to the right for a foot, not a hand. I found the diagonal crack leading to the left vertical crack to be just as challenging as gaining the ledge. From there, it backs off quite a bit with the exception of one thin move up high. A really great route, but it's more like 60ft, not 80.