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Upper East Face
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The Enlightenment 

YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: FFA Alan Lester, equipped by Mark Rolofson
Page Views: 1,755
Submitted By: Peter Beal on May 2, 2002

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  • Description 

    An overhanging bolted finger crack way over on the right side of Blob, right of the Blob slab, and up the gully. This is certainly one of the hardest pitches in the canyon and only the big jug in the middle keeps it from solid 5.13c. A stout opening fingercrack (tape!) with no footholds leads to a burly move with really bad footholds. A few more jams lead to a big flake. Relax here because the end is tenuous, awkward, and just a bit hairy on the lead. For you trad purists, doing this route on gear would be all of the above plus very scary since the crack is remarkably weird and after the start doesn't offer very good placements.


    7 bolts/anchor.

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