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 ADVANCED
Midnight Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
After Midnight S 
Caboose, The S 
Cage, The T 
Caged Bird of Pray T 
Cirque du Soleil S 
Crack a Smile S 
Deus Ex Machina S 
Dyno Mart S 
Engine, The T,S 
Flake Out S 
Geminae Cracks S 
Grande Finale S 
Hack a Drone S 
Hammer Down S 
Jet Stream T 
Karma Chameleon S 
Meltdown S 
Midnight Cowboy S 
Midnight Express S 
Pirate Radar S 
Rycessica T 
Stroke of Midnight, The S 
Union with Earth S 
Voila S 
Weather Report S 

The Engine 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Vaino Kodas, Mary Zuvela, 2004
Page Views: 453
Submitted By: Ron Olsen on Jun 7, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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BETA PHOTO: Midnight Rock, left side. A. The Cage 9+ R, gear....

Description 

This route climbs a clean brown wall that starts from a large ledge high on the rock, above the Pirate Radar roof. It is about 30 feet left of Karma Kamelian. The best approach is to rappel from the top. The ledge can also be accessed by climbing one of the lower routes. An excellent thin crack leads to some exposed face climbing. Move right at the top around the large block to the anchor. A great pitch.

Route description from vainokodas.com/climbing/corout... used with permission.

Protection 

5 bolts plus gear. 2-bolt anchor.


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By david goldstein
Aug 6, 2006

If done just so, this is a continuously challenging, interesting pitch. However, it's easy to take the wrong sequence, after which placing pro is hard and getting back in sync problematic unless you bail off route to much easier ground.

Beta Warning: Stay on the right side of the crack. The left side seems better at first but it leads you off route to inferior climbing.