This route ascends the conspicuous, narrow chimney between The Art of War and Thus Us. The rock is solid and good quality. Crux is in the last 20 feet of the chimney where it tapers from narrow to squeeze. Two bolts protect this final stretch. A big throw with the right arm and a virtual pullup get you out of the squeeze and up to a good stance at a two-bolt anchor with rings. You may have broken a sweat by then.
Tape up and wear appropriate clothing to protect your knees and elbows. Bolts and ring anchor were installed on 2 July 2007. Route was previously toproped. ENEMY is now a solid and reasonable lead...not a sport climb.
Find this route on the NE Face of Avalon between The Art of War and Thus Us. Start along the left side of a huge block that has fallen about 3 feet and stopped. Thus Us begins along the right side of the same block.
Bring gear from a green Alien to a #2 Camalot. 2 bolts protect the last 20 feet of the chimney. 2-bolt anchor with rings at the top. This anchor has a good stance and can also be used for Thus Us.
|By Tony B|
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jun 25, 2008
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a
The most physical climb on the wall, and also the least traveled if dirt is an indicator. Could still use a little more brushing. You can also climb outside the squeeze by stemmin' and palming.
From: Boulder, Co
Sep 3, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a
Fun grovel. Seems easier than 10a to me.
|By Jay Eggleston|
Jun 21, 2013
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a
This is fun, but sport climbers might not like it. It would be very hard to actually fall out of the chimney on this, but I am glad the bolts are present.