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The Western Wing & Alcove
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
357 aka Angel (free version) T 
Alien Encounters T 
Endurance, The T 
French Free T 
Green Eggs and Cams T 
Jug Monkey T 
On Green Dolphin Street T 
Pick Yer Crack aka Divine Intervention T 

The Endurance 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c C2- PG13

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, 2 pitches, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c C2- [details]
FA: Aaron Rashaw Steve Dupuis November 1998
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 762
Submitted By: Aaron R on May 10, 2010

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The Endurance goes out the roof crack just below t...

Description 

Obvious crack splitting a big roof.

We got snowed on and it turned to night while doing this climb. We were soft compared to Shackleton, Hurley and the bunch.

Edit- The first pitch has been freed at 5.11 by Ray Rice via the direct start up the (previously climbed)5.8 flake system below. Both pitches could still use substantially more cleaning (crumbly rock on the upper part of the first pitch), and there is no anchor above the roof.


Location 

Middle part of the alcove where the cliff turns.


Protection 

Standard NH Rack.



Photos of The Endurance Slideshow Add Photo
The Endurance - stiched
The Endurance - stiched
The buttress above- 3rd pitch for The Endurance? There are some huge hairy blocks that need to come down though.
The buttress above- 3rd pitch for The Endurance? T...
Comments on The Endurance Add Comment
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By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
May 21, 2012

OK, I finally figured out correctly which roof this is yesterday and rapped in to check it out. It is pretty obvious after the fact, lol. The roof looks to be totally freeable to me and very cool. It is about 12 feet and about 110 feet off the deck. I have to bring more gear with me next weekend to aid in and clean to confirm that. Above is another long pitch up a handcrack up a slab to a wild flake up a steep buttress. I was able to do a big pendulum under the roof and get in to a an old bolted anchor, where I attached my rope for cleaning next weekend. Getting up to the anchor starts with about 30+ feet of beautiful layback flake to a ledge, where I will probably put a sub anchor since it is such a nice moderate in itself (5.8?). After the ledge is harder vertical flake and crack climbing to the anchor, then maybe 15 ft to the roof.

Aaron and Steve, the line looks amazing, but man, you guys were crazy. It was a good thing it got dark. Maybe you couldn't see it all. There is so much big stuff that needs to get trundled that you climbed on. I'm bringing a big bar next time. This line has got me psyched. I am going to work on it while my projects on the main wall are in the blazing sun.

By Aaron R
Aug 1, 2012

I don't remember the roof being that high off the ground (110 ft) but it was a while ago. I do remember some crack systems after the roof on lower angle terrain that looked like they would need some gardening. The roof crack was 4 camalotish at the end and a little flared. I'd love to see some pics of you guys sending!

By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Aug 9, 2012

Here are a few photos from my exploration. I ended up cleaning the route some, but pulled my rope for now realizing that I need to finish up some of my numerous other projects before biting into this one.
Note - Currently there is no anchor above the roof.

By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Oct 19, 2013

From Bayard's note under the Main Wall section - "Ray also free climbed climbed, ground-up, the first pitch of what appears to be The Endurance. He started on a previously cleaned flake system off the ground, and headed straight up into a thin crack, flakes and eventually some kitty litter granite in a small hanging corner. He lowered off a two bolt anchor below the roof and mumbled something about 5.11 and never wanting to go up there again. "

By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Oct 19, 2013

Ray, would you mind if I put an anchor above the ledge for the lower flakes some time? While I was cleaning on this earlier I had soloed the lower flakes and traversed off at the ledge. I was thinking to put an anchor there as a nice easy/warm-up route for the crag, but was waiting to see how much harder the climbing above turned out to be after cleaning.