The End 

There are two different ways to conquer the crux on this one. If you have the momentum going up into it, use it. If you are really good at crimping, there is a very small one you could use that's in the area near the right hand if you're coming up from the left.

The hold in question has been loose for years. It may still go soon, but this is not new info.

The hold has benn loose since the first time I climbed the end. Which was 30+ years ago.

A hard lead with scant pro. I only placed two pieces, the smallest ultra light nut and a mediocre blue alien.

"X" rated lead , I got in more than two pieces but they were all pretty sketchy. I did the direct, avoiding the block, I thought that was always normal route but Sven says otherwise.
A #1 Ballnut behind the horn at the lower crux, helped ease the nerves in that little awkward section. Then a decent micro cam, two Astro nuts in a shallow pocket, two more ball nuts up higher, one behind a hollow block.
Sven says "One's last lead at Devil's Lake?" Too bad he was wrong.

I give it an R. You can place a good brassie once on top of the prow, which should protect the crux moves. A fall would be bad, but probably not to the ground. Ball Nuts work well behind a sketchy flake to protect? the last hard move.

I think this begs the question of what we consider "R" or "X". To me this route is undeniably "X" due to the placements that will probably pull if fallen on. Just cause the gear goes in doesn't mean it's worth anything.

See this old thread and continue the discussion if you feel the need: www.mountainproject.com/v/distinguishing-between-protection->>>

Ok, well if X is for suspect gear, then X it is!

I forgot how fun this climb is! Has anyone else been on this recently? The good edge right below the large flake near the start is a bit loose and seems like it could blow. Has it always been like this?

Always been that way Remo.

I remember wiggling that hold way back when I was 13 years old.... I am almost 50 now....