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Shirt Tail Peak
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Double Life 
Emperor's New Shoes, The 
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Ginseng Junkie 
Giuoco Piano Direct 
King Of Pain 
Missing Link 
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Moriarty's Revenge 
Mountaineer's Route 
Mrs. Clean Gets Down 
Serrated Jam Crack 
Throne, The 
Tiger Balm Arete 
Windlass or 'The Tail' 

The Emperor's New Shoes 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a PG13

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 30'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
Page Views: 389
Submitted By: CHRIS.T on Jan 17, 2008
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  • Description 

    This route is best done as a finish to the route "Sunstroke", or after summiting Shirt Tail Peak via one of the other routes on the south face.

    From the top of the second (of three) rappels on the descent (the more eastern of 2 sets of rappels that start in the gully), look climber's right to locate a clean wall with a small roof/bulge about 20' up and 2 short parallel cracks above the roof/bulge. The route starts about 10 feet right of an obvious, moderate, hand crack that angles slightly left. Begin on a ledge just left of a large pine tree and ascend easy rock for 10 feet. Work your way up the rest of the face before entering the roof/bulge(tricky gear). Proceed through the roof/bulge(crux)(tricky gear) to a good stance. Make a few more nice moves through the parallel cracks for another 10 feet to a good ledge. Continue up and left to the top of the rappels, or keep climbing up fun, easy rock to the summit.

    The relationship between this route and the finish of "Sunstroke" is unknown.


    This route is on the west face, above and left of "King of Pain" and "Mrs. Clean Gets Down", just left of a large pine tree on a ledge.


    Standard rack.

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