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 ADVANCED
The Black Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Ant Farm, The T 
Cannonball Corner T 
Cary Granite T 
Coffee Achievers T 
Emerald Highway, The T 
Escape Route T 
Espresso T 
Good Evans T 
Harry Cary T 
High Variance T 
Old Rappel Route T 
Parallel Universe T 
Phil-a-Guster T 
Rainbow Highway T 
Road Warrior T 
Rusty Dagger, The T 
Undertow T 
Undertow (free) T 
Unnamed Bolted Face T,S 
Unsorted Routes:

The Emerald Highway 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 700', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: J. Thompson, D. Haller, B. Collett, July, 2010
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,804
Submitted By: Ben Collett on Jul 11, 2010

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BETA PHOTO: P6: Scramble to the summit via the most direct rou...

Description 

This route follows mostly continuous cracks for the length of the wall. With a few more ascents, it is a really nice continuous outing.

1) Start up a shallow, left-facing corner. After about 40 feet, it ends at a ledge. Above the ledge is an arch. Follow the arch to its apex, and face climb up to a small ledge above below another arch. 90 feet, 5.10+.

2) Climb over the arch, clip a bolt and climb left past a second bolt to a shallow left facing corner. Follow this until you can step left on to a ledgy system and a two bolt belay. 5.10-, 90 feet.

3) Head towards the large obvious corner. Climb up into the corner system using a nice hand crack on the left to avoid the blank section in the beginning. Belay at a two bolt belay on the right wall. 5.10, 140 feet.

4) Continue up the crack system passing a roof and belaying at the base of a chimney. 95 feet, 5.10+.

5) Follow the chimney to easier ground and belay at a grassy ledge. 150 feet, 5.9.

6) Climb straight up over a couple of short walls and find yourself at the base of a chimney after about 80 feet. Follow this to its end and make your way to the top of the wall. 5.7.


Location 

On the right side of the Black Wall, there are two prominent roofs that are about 300 feet above the talus. Between the two roofs is an obvious dihedral system. The Emerald Highway follows that system. It starts in a wavy flake system below the dihedral.

Per doug haller: the route starts below and to climber's right of both Good Evans and Road Warrior.


Protection 

Cams from small to #5 C4. Nuts.



Photos of The Emerald Highway Slideshow Add Photo
Ben Collet, start of P1, FA.
BETA PHOTO: Ben Collet, start of P1, FA.
The route.
BETA PHOTO: The route.
At the base of P1, Ben and Josh.
BETA PHOTO: At the base of P1, Ben and Josh.
Looking up the what the route description called P3 at the bolted belay, start of the splitter crack just left of the large roof, Mike Keegan belaying (this was actually our P2).
Looking up the what the route description called P...
P1-2, Just the traverse of P2.
BETA PHOTO: P1-2, Just the traverse of P2.
P5: Start with hard moves above the P4 roof. Through a surprisingly easy chimney. 50 meters to a ledge.
BETA PHOTO: P5: Start with hard moves above the P4 roof. Throu...
P2 from the belay atop P1.
BETA PHOTO: P2 from the belay atop P1.
We linked P1 & P2, this picture is after clipping the 1st bolt on P2, great section.
We linked P1 & P2, this picture is after clipping ...
P3. Doug Haller enjoying the clean hand crack, 5.8+ until it becomes overgrown and 10+ above.
BETA PHOTO: P3. Doug Haller enjoying the clean hand crack, 5.8...
Mike Keegan half way up the 10+ dihedral pitch, this pitch was spectacular, the bolted belay up and 25 feet left of corner make viewing the pitch great.
Mike Keegan half way up the 10+ dihedral pitch, th...
Comments on The Emerald Highway Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jay Brown
From: Aspen, Colorado
Jul 12, 2010

Where is the route in relation of the others???

By doug haller
From: Boulder, Colorado
Jul 12, 2010

The route starts below and to climber's right of both Good Evans and Road Warrior.

By J. Thompson
From: denver, co
Jul 15, 2010

...that's WAY right of GE and RW.....like the complete other side of the wall.

josh

By J. Thompson
From: denver, co
Jul 29, 2012

The bottom half of this route has been retrobolted (by the FAs) and redone as part of this route:
mountainproject.com/v/rainbow-highway/107724863

It's a harder and more direct line.

The upper part of Emerald can also be used to bail off quickly if the need should arise.

Enjoy!

josh

By Kevin Gillest
From: Arvada, CO
Aug 20, 2012

Pitch 1 10+:
We linked the 2 first pitches together, be sure to use all 24" and 48" runners, we had rope drag at the anchor. Would be a much different pitch without those 2 bolts on the upper traverse.
Pitch 2 10a:
From the 1st bolted belay to the 2nd bolted belay at the large roof, scrambling to the corner without much gear, great splitter crack to bolted belay.
Pitch 3 10+:
2nd bolted belay till 3rd bolted belay, awesome corner likely the crux of the route, without the face holds this route would go much harder, AWESOME pitch, 1 bolt leaving corner heading to belay.
Pitch 4 5.9:
Corner/chimney (lots of loose rock) to easy ground.
Pitch 5 5.9:
We followed route to the immediate right of Rainbow Highway, unprotected, dirty corner, crux being wide flake 2 steps below Rainbow Highway upper rap anchor

Would recommend Rainbow finish instead of Emerald. We carried doubles (Metolius #00 - BD #4) and full set nuts, did not set #4 and could have minimized small selection.

Nice work, Ben, Doug and Josh, for the bolts and belays!

Our version of Emerald Highway, arrows/numbers show belay, green line shows variation. <br />(Picture by Ben Collett.)
Our version of Emerald Highway, arrows/numbers show belay, green line shows variation.
(Picture by Ben Collett.)

By J. Thompson
From: denver, co
Sep 4, 2012

"Would be a much different pitch without those 2 bolts on the upper traverse. "

I can assure you it was! I led it onsight on the FA, without the bolts. It was...heady.

Have Fun!

josh

By Kevin Gillest
From: Arvada, CO
Sep 9, 2012

Nice work, was hoping to get back this season before the snow flies.