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Matthew NM moving to the sloping rail on The Egg. ...
|Guided tour access only|
East Spur is accessed by Guided Tour Only
Some areas require a guide.
Great sloper problem. Graded V10 when first put up, I feel that the V8 grade from the guide book is a bit of a sandbag though V10 might be a bit generous.
Start in a left kneebar with some bad underclings, it might be possible to pull on without the kneebar, but it would be heinous. Reach out to a sharp jug over the lip and match. Your kneebar should kind of pop out easily considering how hard it is to get in in the first place, get a right toe hook. Reach left to some slopers and move your right foot to a heal on the jug and squeeze your left foot into the underclings. Mess around on the slopers untill you have a left false grip on the furthest left lump and ring your heal into the furthest right sloper. Move your right hand up into a crimpy undercling and smear your left foot on something just over the lip of the roof that looks as though you will not stick to it and hit the sloping rail up and left as a gaston. Bump your hand up untill you get to a good spot. Swing your left foot back under the roof to get a toe hook that is bad which allows you to match the sloping rail and push up and left to a jug at the top.
You can literaly slip off of just about any move on this problem which makes it pretty cool, you have to use your whole body to stay on the rock.
Work your way under the left side of the German Photo Route boulder, past Glas Roof, then back right around the back of that boulder. The Egg should be right infront of you.
Pads and spotter, the landing is a bit uneven so several pads are nice to have but one spotter is typically enough.