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 ADVANCED
The Egg

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Cracked Egg T 
Go Van Gogh T 
Groovin' T 
Huevos Rancheros T,TR 
Jesus or Jeopardy S 
Just Say No to Crack S 
Leggo My Eggo S 
Lowe Blow T 
Old Peculier T 
Over Easy T 
Runnel Chunnel T 
Variety Delight T 
Windjammer T 

The Egg  


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 40.57405, -111.76875 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 27,400
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Nathan Fisher on Apr 23, 2004
Forecast:
You & This Area
Best routes for YOU in this area
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Description 

Mostly bolted, and nicely angled. The granite here has pockets on most of the face. The climbs tend to be long and feel very exposed. Either do a 2-rope rappel or hike off to the west. A very warm area to climb. The highest of the deep winter crags.

Getting There 

Park in the Little Cottonwood lower canyon Park and Ride. Locate the climber's access trail in the lot's northeast corner (directly north of the restroom). Follow this trail east until you are directly below The Egg. Continue on the switchbacks to the base of the routes. Do a small 4th class scramble to gain the routes.

This trail reduces visual and physical impact and is strongly recommended. It is good practice and helps maintain access.This approach isn't much longer and with more traffic, parking in this area will reduce your chances of a break-in.

Climbing Season



Weather station 3.0 miles from here

13 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',7],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',4],['5.8',1],['5.9',3],['5.10',3],['5.11',2],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Egg:
Just Say No to Crack   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Variety Delight   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 2 pitches, 210'   
Huevos Rancheros   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 150'   
Groovin'   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 150'   
Go Van Gogh   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
Lowe Blow   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 210'   
Leggo My Eggo   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 150'   
Jesus or Jeopardy   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch   
Old Peculier   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 60'   
Cracked Egg   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, 2 pitches, 130'   
Browse More Classics in The Egg

Featured Route For The Egg
Leaving the start of Groovin' onto Huevos Ranchero...

Huevos Rancheros 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b UT : Wasatch Range : ... : The Egg
Huevos Rancheros is the second bolt line to the right of Variety Delight (obvious splitter groove up the center of the Egg). It is a long way between bolts.You can either start this at the starting flake of Groovin', or start at Variety Delight and traverse right into the route. The first bolt is way up there, but an alien could be placed when passing the 5.6 groove of Lowe Blowe. Crux is right at the first bolt, then lots of incut features lead to the top. Angle left at the top to use the a...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

Photos of The Egg Slideshow Add Photo
Egg and Dragon Arch
BETA PHOTO: Egg and Dragon Arch
Great Beta on how to approach The Egg
BETA PHOTO: Great Beta on how to approach The Egg
1) Leggo My Eggo  2) Variety Delight  3) Just Say ...
BETA PHOTO: 1) Leggo My Eggo 2) Variety Delight 3) Just Say ...
The Egg.
BETA PHOTO: The Egg.
The Egg
BETA PHOTO: The Egg
Murphski and I with eggs at the Egg.
Murphski and I with eggs at the Egg.

Comments on The Egg Add Comment
Show which comments
By Vince Romney
Jul 26, 2004
I've climbed many times on the Egg in mid-winter during our 40-50 degree day warm-spells. It offers varied face and crack/groove climbing, with a particularly interesting (awkward) off-width (.9+) courtesy of George Lowe. Pretty much all easy to moderate climbs with a couple .10a's thrown in. Food for the odd day out.
By Stan Pitcher
From: SLC, UT
Oct 17, 2011
For approach - new trail leads to west side of egg and if you do the scramble up from there, you will be at base of Leggo and a few tricky moves from the other routes. To reach the base of most of the routes, you need to find the old trail heading right along the base of the Egg and then scramble up and left to the ledge below Variety/Groovin.
By Greg G
From: SLC, UT
Mar 19, 2013
the egg combined with the dragon arch make one of the better crags in the canyon.
By John Marsella
From: Berthoud, CO
Aug 5, 2014
Ruckman guides suggest a trail @ 0.35 mi. This trail sucks but it gets you there and starts just up-canyon from the 40 MPH sign. Don't do it.

Alternate approach begins just next to a large electrical box thing at ~0.3 mi and starts with some wooden-terraced steps. Hang a right just past the next electrical box thing/pole. Follow the awesome trail from here up and trending eastward where possible to reach the switchbacks leading to the final 4th class for the left side of the Egg.