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Mostly bolted, and nicely angled. The granite here has pockets on most of the face. The climbs tend to be long and feel very exposed. Either do a 2-rope rappel or hike off to the west. A very warm area to climb. The highest of the deep winter crags.
Park in the Little Cottonwood lower canyon Park and Ride. Locate the climber's access trail in the lot's northeast corner (directly north of the restroom). Follow this trail east until you are directly below The Egg. Continue on the switchbacks to the base of the routes. Do a small 4th class scramble to gain the routes.
13 Total Routes
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Egg:
Huevos Rancheros 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b R Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 150'
Variety Delight 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b Trad, 2 pitches, 210'
Groovin' 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c Trad, 1 pitch, 150'
Go Van Gogh 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Lowe Blow 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a Trad, 2 pitches, 210'
Leggo My Eggo 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a Sport, 1 pitch, 150'
Jesus or Jeopardy 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a Sport, 1 pitch
Old Peculier 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ E3 5c Trad, 60'
Cracked Egg 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a Trad, 2 pitches, 130'
Featured Route For The Egg
Groovin' 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c UT : Wasatch Range : ... : The Egg
Groovin' is on the far right side of the Egg. Look for small roof that angles up and right, turning into a right facing dihedral. This route isn't very obvious, but can be picked out by looking for the fixed pins.Start up an expando flake, then quickly reach the roof. Two pins and an alien placement lead to a good bolt. Thin moves above the bolt are protected by 2 more pins, stoppers, and small cams. Continue up through kindof crappy rock to an anchor made up of a small tree and a piton. O...[more] Browse More Classics in UT
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