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Mostly bolted, and nicely angled. The granite here has pockets on most of the face. The climbs tend to be long and feel very exposed. Either do a 2-rope rappel or hike off to the west. A very warm area to climb. The highest of the deep winter crags.
Park in the Little Cottonwood lower canyon Park and Ride. Locate the climber's access trail in the lot's northeast corner (directly north of the restroom). Follow this trail east until you are directly below The Egg. Continue on the switchbacks to the base of the routes. Do a small 4th class scramble to gain the routes.
13 Total Routes
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Egg:
Huevos Rancheros 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b R Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 150'
Variety Delight 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b Trad, 2 pitches, 210'
Groovin' 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c Trad, 1 pitch, 150'
Go Van Gogh 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Lowe Blow 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a Trad, 2 pitches, 210'
Leggo My Eggo 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a Sport, 1 pitch, 150'
Jesus or Jeopardy 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a Sport, 1 pitch
Old Peculier 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ E3 5c Trad, 60'
Cracked Egg 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a Trad, 2 pitches, 130'
Featured Route For The Egg
Lowe Blow 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a UT : Wasatch Range : ... : The Egg
Ruckmans only give this one star, but I gave it two if only because it is a great off-width test piece. I climbed this first back in the early 80's, and again last spring in March, when it was beautiful, sunny and surprisingly warm. The first pitch is a cruise up to the two-bolt belay. From here the crack lulls you in with a couple of good jams, but as it angles left and steepens, it widens to just beyond good hand-stacks and requires strenous arm-bars and knee stuffs. If you have plenty of ...[more] Browse More Classics in UT
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