It does look like and egg. 5.10 - 5.12 Sport routes on two sides, and some easier (5.7 - 5.9?) top ropeable slab climbs on the back (North?) side. It's an egg, it sits right on the beach so when there's sun, you'll be in the sun on one side of the rock. When there's fog, or rain, you're going to be exposed and cold.
Rock is solid granite that's fairly easy on the fingers.
Currently, I believe this is part of the state parks system, so there aren't any access issues, other than that the park closes at sunset.
If you're going to climb the egg, and up for a challenge, you should try egghead, which is a "5.11b" that could easliy go for 5.12a other places in the area.
The climbs on the beta photo below are as follows:1)Egghead (5.11b)2)Jungle Work (5.12a t.r.)3) This is your Brain on Drugs (5.12c)4) Sign Language (5.10c)
There are two recommended ways to get to the egg:
The first is pretty burny on the knees and feet.Time: 10 - 15 minutes down, 15 - 20 up.From the main parking lot, get back in your car, and drive back down the coast about 1/2 a mile to a pullout. You can spot the egg from the road at this pullout. The pullout is located about halfway between the main parking lot and the Steep Ravine cabins entrance. It's also the only prominenet pullout that doesn't have a no parking sign on it. From a trail that starts on the right side of the pullout head down towards the beach. Once you reach the beach, head left until you reach the egg. See the photos of the egg and the view from the parking lot.
The second approach will take a little longer, but if you're injured, tired or just plain lazy this is the route for you.Time: Unknown.Park at the gate for the Steep Revine Cabins, and head down the paved trail. Once you get to the main campground area, head right along the coast about 100 yards until you get to the egg.
A third approach (not recommended) also appears possible, but I probably wouldn't try it, especially after seeing it at almost high tide.Time: Unknown.From the main rock at Mickey's Beach follow the coast east until you get to the egg. In high tide you're going to be swimming the rough rocky surf. In low tide the rocks are probably pretty slippery.
This is your Brain on Drugs starts just right of the Egghead start and may even use holds from Egghead (and visa versa) depending on how you do the moves. From second bolt move right using tiny crimper to a small but good hold that you can match on. Continue right on very small hand and foot holds and up to small bulge. Go over bulge, moving up and left on small holds continuing up to anchors. This route requires strong fingers and good footwork and is very continuous with several cruxes....[more]Browse More Classics in CA
Definitely wouldn't advise going from Main Rock directly to the Egg. The ridgeline is crumbly with nasty falls, and the even the beach approach forces you to scale crumbly rocks with backpacks on. Somebody (He Man?) told us it was the best way. No way! Go through the campgrounds or the other approach and save your nervous energy for the climbs!
There is a very nice 5.8ish route on the east side (to the left of Egg Face) that is protected by two bolts to a one-bolt anchor. Not mentioned in the Tresa Black book or here. Also in the middle there is a single bolt to what looks like was a single bolt anchor. Getting to the anchor is quite run out and the only way to clip to the anchor is by using one of the two small slings left at it, so did not attempt.