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 ADVANCED
Lower Left Wall / Ventilator Slabs
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Age Before Beauty T 
Bombardment T 
Effects of Kind Bud on an Abnormal Brain, The T 
Ego Trip T,S 
Fisting Jon (AKA Leafspring) T 
Fun House T 
Fun House Left T 
Happy Trails T 
King Crab (Girdle Traverse of Cathedral Ledge) T 
Once Upon A Climb T 
One Hit To The Body T 
Pleasant St. T 
Pooh T 
Son Of A Birch T 
Starfire (Yo-Yo) T 
Three Birches T 
Ventilated Western Girl T,S 
Ventilator T 
Western Lady/ California Girls T 
Unsorted Routes:

The Effects of Kind Bud on an Abnormal Brain 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 75'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]
FA: Unknown, possibly Loran Smith and Joshua Corbett 11/3/12
Page Views: 542
Submitted By: EDGE on Nov 3, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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The route follows close to the arete which forms t...

Description 

A botanists dream, for everyone else, not so much?

Just left of Pleasant Street is a triangular, vertical wall. Walk around the corner at it's left end, and at the lowest point start up an obvious bear-hug flake to a second similar flake. Move slightly right, keeping a 3" dia tree on your left, then saunter up the numerous slabs mixed with ledges above keeping as close as possible to the arete on the right.


Location 

Just left of the start of Pleasant Street is a triangular, blocky, vertical wall. This route starts at the left end of this wall, just around the corner and below the lowest toe of rock on a bear-hug flake.


Protection 

Tie off some trees, fiddle in a couple small cams or stoppers, or whatever the voices tell you to place. Beech tree anchor at top.



Photos of The Effects of Kind Bud on an Abnormal Brain Slideshow Add Photo
Loran Smith low down on the route.  Joshua Corbett photo.
Loran Smith low down on the route. Joshua Corbett...
Wandering through a sea of lichen.  Joshua Corbett photo.
Wandering through a sea of lichen. Joshua Corbett...
The route from below, after a brief cleaning with a broken beech stick.  A half hour with a wire brush would make this actually kinda fun in a twisted sort of way for the 5.5 climber.
The route from below, after a brief cleaning with ...
Comments on The Effects of Kind Bud on an Abnormal Brain Add Comment
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By EDGE
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 3, 2012

The inspiration for this climb is partially described by it's name, after a chance encounter with a hero-of-the-day on the Cathedral auto road. Similarly adequate mental preparation greatly enhances the experience.

The climb may very well have been done before, but as you can see from the pics was rather "hairy." It was cleaned on the lead with a frayed branch, hitting only the key holds and smears. By the top, the 10" long stick was reduced to a 4" pointy one. It was similarly and more thoroughly cleaned via rappel during the descent.

By john strand
From: southern colo
Nov 4, 2012

EDGE- I think you are losing your mind.

By EDGE
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 4, 2012

Someone told me it was one of your unfinished projects, John.

By Peter Lewis
From: Bridgton, Maine
Apr 28, 2014

Yeah, it is one of John's old routes, and when he first found it (taking a leak in the forest before doing Bombardment, no doubt) it was sparkling clean. The rumor is that he planted all the lichen on it first and then soloed it in a light freezing rain. North Conway is such an odd place.....