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Redgarden - S Buttress
Routes Sorted
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A Breed Apart T 
Anthill Direct T 
Archer McLanahan T 
Back in Black S 
Backstroke T,S 
Backtalk T,S,TR 
Black Top S 
Blackwalk T 
Book of Numbers T,S 
Bulge Indirect T 
Bulge, The T 
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Cleopatra Says Happy Birthday to Anthony T 
Continue-us T 
Crack Variation T 
Desdichado T,S 
Dessert T 
East Overhang TR 
East Side T 
Edge of Night, The T 
Exodus T 
Flakes, The T 
Genesis T,S 
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Horizontal Beginnings T 
Je T'Aime T,S 
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Mental Cruelty TR 
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Original Anthill T 
PA's Variation T 
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Pseudo Sidetrack T 
Pseudo Sidetrack, Direct Finish T 
Redguard T 
Restless Nights T 
Semi-Wild T 
Semi-Wild Slab T 
Shades of Gray T 
Sticky Feet T 
To Night T 
Trinity Cracks T 
Vaporizer, The S 
Variation to Lower Meadows T 
Walk the Talk T 
Whistle Stop, The T 
Whittle Wall, The T 
Whittle Whisk T 

The Edge of Night 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a R

   
Type:  Trad
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Matt Samet, Steve Dieckhoff
New Route: Yes
Fixed Hardware: 1 Lead Pin [details]
Page Views: 410
Submitted By: Pinklebear on Oct 13, 2001

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  • Description 

    This line climbs the nicely positioned roof and face left of Night on the Blackwalk Wall. With a 70-meter cord, you can reach the anchors on Night and lower to the ground but just barely. The route climbs through the brown rock just left (south) of the black plaque forming the center of Blackwalk Wall, then moves through a 3-foot roof onto the black rock itself.

    A long stretch of easy, semi-protectable climbing (use long slings) leads to the base of the route proper. The easiest way here is via the ramp down and left of the ramp used to access Night, Back in Black, etc. Climb up and right on rough, wavy rock from the top of this ramp to encounter the first steep bit on the route.

    Pass an old pin in the rotten purple band, stretch high for a good TCU under a small roof and climb up past crumbly edges and funky holes to the left-angling finger crack under the roof. Load the crack up with gear and move left along and under the lip of the roof, turning it when convenient. Easier climbing (5.9 s) on featured black rock "protected" by a lone RP takes you to the double Metolius anchors on Night.

    Steve had brushed off some of the holds on rappel and told me about the line. I led it ground-up, onsight, with his good juju, and Steve followed clean.

    Protection 

    Bring lots of small to mid-range TCUs, a good selection of small-mid sized wires, some RPs, and long slings.


    Comments on The Edge of Night Add Comment
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    By kiff
    May 19, 2012
    rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a X

    This route (more of a boulder problem actually) is awesome! The crack under the roof takes great 0.3 and 0.4 Camalots.