Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Omega Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Annals of Time T 
Dihedral of Horrors T 
Edge of Horror, The T 
Manufactured Crisis T 
Omega Crack T,S 
Omega Triangle T 
Unsorted Routes:

The Edge of Horror 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a R

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 250'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: 
Season: Summer
Page Views: 347
Submitted By: Ian Eastman on Jan 21, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

Beta: 

This climb is defined by exposed climbing off the deck, small fussy gear and asthetic climbing up a gorgeous arete. It can be done as one long rope stretching pitch or broken into two pitches.
Pitch 1
Start from large belay on second pitch of Dihedrals of Horror. The route ascends the knife blade arete to the right of D.O.H.. From the belay you have two options, an easier 5.9 hand crack on the left side of the wall or a more difficult 5.10+ start on the right. Heading up to a small ledge where a #3 camalot placement is crucial to prevent a ground fall. Move slightly right and then up a small corner system, some small .25-.50 placements can be found through here. Climb up the corner system to a piton, clip it and move right around arete to a lieback on a flack system. Move up through another small insecure corner system, staying on arete, and up onto small ledge.
Possible location for belay.
Pitch 2
Climb left off ledge up small seam to insecure holds on arete, clipping bolt. Continue up arete working small holds for another 20' to easier ground above. Continue up to ledge for next belay.


Comments on The Edge of Horror Add Comment
Show which comments
By Ian Eastman
Jan 21, 2013

Ships Prow as seen from approach trail
Ships Prow as seen from approach trail


Ships prow as seen from West. Edge of Horror follo...
Ships prow as seen from West. Edge of Horror follows skyline arete for the most part.


Beginning of first pitch
Beginning of first pitch


Crux pitch. Corner is optional belay. Go left at c...
Crux pitch. Corner is optional belay. Go left at corner to arete, clipping bolt.