The Edge of Da-light
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Greg moving from the arete onto the 5.11 face crac...
There are several variations on this route. I called this a 5.10 route because the original route was 5.10. Ray Ringle added the 5.11- variation.
As mentioned below, this route has several starts. It is no problem to start at the bottom of Slippery When Wet if you have a 60 M rope. If you do this, be sure not to create rope drag for the rest of the route. After the start, stay on the arete as much as possible. There is a bolt as the route diverges from Slippery. The protection gets a little sparse but the climbing isn't too hard. Eventually the route hits a small roof. Go right here. There are a few great cam placements to the right of the roof. I am not sure where the original route and the 11- variation diverge, but I think the original finish is on the arete or slightly left of it and the variation finishes right of the arete, through a steep face and a wide crack. No matter which variation you take, expect some fun exposure and sparse, but adequate pro.
Save some medium-sized pro for an anchor on top.
Southwest arete of North Fin, start on a ledge near the start of Nang or start on Slippery When Wet
standard rack, maybe an extra red camalot
By John Steiger
May 24, 2008
Ray did the FA of the 5.11- finish in 1985. I did the FA of the original line (with Don) in 1977 -- Steve wasn't involved. (Steve's always out-climbed me, to my endless chagrin; I can't resist bumping him here!)
From: Boise, ID
Dec 10, 2008
The 11- variation is quite good. Steep face climbing with crack gear. At least 3 stars IMO.