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North Fin
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Edge of Da-light, The 
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The Edge of Da-light 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: John Steiger, Don Gallagher
Page Views: 852
Submitted By: dcohn on Mar 22, 2008
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Greg moving from the arete onto the 5.11 face crac...

Description 

There are several variations on this route. I called this a 5.10 route because the original route was 5.10. Ray Ringle added the 5.11- variation.

As mentioned below, this route has several starts. It is no problem to start at the bottom of Slippery When Wet if you have a 60 M rope. If you do this, be sure not to create rope drag for the rest of the route. After the start, stay on the arete as much as possible. There is a bolt as the route diverges from Slippery. The protection gets a little sparse but the climbing isn't too hard. Eventually the route hits a small roof. Go right here. There are a few great cam placements to the right of the roof. I am not sure where the original route and the 11- variation diverge, but I think the original finish is on the arete or slightly left of it and the variation finishes right of the arete, through a steep face and a wide crack. No matter which variation you take, expect some fun exposure and sparse, but adequate pro.

Save some medium-sized pro for an anchor on top.


Location 

Southwest arete of North Fin, start on a ledge near the start of Nang or start on Slippery When Wet


Protection 

standard rack, maybe an extra red camalot



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By John Steiger
May 24, 2008

Ray did the FA of the 5.11- finish in 1985. I did the FA of the original line (with Don) in 1977 -- Steve wasn't involved. (Steve's always out-climbed me, to my endless chagrin; I can't resist bumping him here!)

By MJW
From: Boise, ID
Dec 10, 2008

The 11- variation is quite good. Steep face climbing with crack gear. At least 3 stars IMO.

By Andy Bennett
From: Tucson, AZ
May 20, 2010

Thrilling ;-)!