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The Edge of Chaos
5.11b/c YDS 6c+ French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British
Avg: 3.1 from 116
votes
Routes in White Wave Wall
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Edge of Chaos, The S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Kill Your Lawyer S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Knuckle Up S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Naked Knuckle S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Naked Nebula S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Rhinoplasty S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Sandbagged by the Weatherman S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Virtual Reality S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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| Type: | Sport, 85 ft (26 m) |
| FA: | Brian Smoot |
| Page Views: | 3,943 total · 20/month |
| Shared By: | Perin Blanchard on Mar 26, 2008 |
| Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Access Issue: Located in a National Forest Fee Area
Details
See the Uinta-Wasatch-Cache National Forest Service fee page fs.fed.us/r4/uwc/passes/ for more information.
Description
A really enjoyable jug haul with a remarkably airy lower-off or rappel. The Edge of Chaos has some exciting, hard moves interspersed with good rests.
Get past the initial two bolts by classic AF pocket pulling over the starting overhang. The start is a bit tricky because the feet are thin, and after the first obvious ones, the correct pockets/jugs are a bit hard to find.
Continue up and right on less-than-vertical terrain to the third bolt, and then things get steeper. There are some fun liebacking moves, and as you start back left again, a confidence-building, off-balance, double sidepull move that is pretty cool. The left-trending top bit is pretty fun because your mind is telling you that you really don't want to go that way and follow the bolt line...it's just not natural to dangle your corpus over a bunch of air.
Cleaning the route while lowering or rappelling would be challenging, to say the least. Do yourself a favor and run up it on toprope to clean it.
Get past the initial two bolts by classic AF pocket pulling over the starting overhang. The start is a bit tricky because the feet are thin, and after the first obvious ones, the correct pockets/jugs are a bit hard to find.
Continue up and right on less-than-vertical terrain to the third bolt, and then things get steeper. There are some fun liebacking moves, and as you start back left again, a confidence-building, off-balance, double sidepull move that is pretty cool. The left-trending top bit is pretty fun because your mind is telling you that you really don't want to go that way and follow the bolt line...it's just not natural to dangle your corpus over a bunch of air.
Cleaning the route while lowering or rappelling would be challenging, to say the least. Do yourself a favor and run up it on toprope to clean it.
![White Wave Wall<br>
1 [[105741125]] 5.12a<br>
2 [[107222525]] 5.13a<br>
3 [[106600002]] 5.12d<br>
4 Unknown<br>
5 [[106128914]] 5.11b/c<br>
6 [[106159606]] 5.11b/c<br>
7 [[107528959]] 5.11d](https://mountainproject.com/assets/photos/climb/105898058_smallMed_1557939110.jpg?cache=1649475511)
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