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The East Quarry

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Asbury Park T,TR 
Battle of the Bulbus S 
Bluesfish S 
Chum S,TR 
Deepwater Horizon S 
Defective Agency S 
Emilia's Corner T 
Fluke TR 
Flying Fish S 
Goonch, The TR 
Great Wide Shark T 
Hairless Dog S 
Hammerhead T 
Herringbone T 
Herringbone Direct  T 
High Tide S 
Holy Mackerel S 
Jaws T 
Jaws Part 2 (Shark Bait) T 
Land Shark T 
Natural Born Topropers T,S,TR 
Nurse Shark T 
Old Man and the Sea S 
Old Man And The Sea Direct S 
Pigeon of the Sea S 
Pinkerton S 
Play With Your Balls T 
Pretzel Logic S 
S.S. Minnow T 
Sand Shark T 
Sea Robin T 
Sea Urchin T 
Slap Happy S 
Tendonkey Punch S 
Tiger Shark T 
Tiger's Woody S 
Viagra Crack T 
Weakfish S,TR 
Wooly Bully S 

The East Quarry 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 39.77286, -105.20459 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 22,776
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Kirk Miller on Feb 28, 2009
Forecast:
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Blooming after the rain.

Description 

This can be a great place to hang when the wind is howling, but you might want to wear a helmet for the rocks that can be blown off the top. It is very sheltered from prevailing winds and stays sunny till late afternoon in the winter. The crag has seen some bold, ground up routes developed. Bolted top out anchors seem to be the norm on the crack climbs. In addition to the trad routes, several bolted sport climbs have been established.


Getting There 

This great little crag sits a few hundred yards east of The Quarry Wall. Follow the trail east until you encounter the crag on the left.

There is another trailhead that can be used to access this crag. To the east of the typical parking area near the Easley to CO 58 on ramp, you can go about 2 blocks further east to Ridge Rd. Turn north and go uphill. The road turns into Ulysses. Take it to its end. There is room for 5-6 cars here. The trail takes the right fork ~150 yards from the lot. It makes a U-turn/left turn higher up in the valley to connect with the traversing trail that goes under the East Quarry. Mountain bikers use this trail, too.


L->R: 

A1. Holy Mackerel, 10 R, 1p, 50', gear (now bolts).
A2. Natural Born Topropers, 8 or 9, 1p, 50', TR or gear (now bolts).
BA2. Hairless Dog, 12-, 1p, bolts, 50',
C. Pinkerton, 11+, 1p, bolts, 55'.
D. Sea Urchin, 10- PG-13, 1p, 50', gear (now some bolts).
E. Weakfish, 10+, 1p, 40', bolts.
F. Pretzel Logic, 11, 1p, 40', bolts.
G1. Defective Agency, 11-, 1p, bolts, 55'.
G2. Viagra Crack, 12 or A0, 1p, 50', bolt & gear.
H. High Tide, 11+, 1p, 40', bolts & gear.
I1. Battle of the Bulbus, 12, 1p, 40', bolts.
I2. Tendonkey Punch, 12, 1p, 50', gear & bolts.
J1. crack, 1p, 40', TR.
J2. Sand Shark, 10+, 1p, gear.
K. Asbury Park, 11, 1p, 40', TR.
L. Jaws, 11+ PG-13, 1p, 40', gear.
M. Jaws Part 2 (Shark Bait), 12- R, 1p, 45', gear & bolt.
N. Chum, 12, 1p, TR.
O. Herringbone Direct , 12+, 1p, 40', TR.
P. Primary Chimney?
Q. Herringbone, 10 PG-13, 1p, 35', gear.
R. Pigeon of the Sea, 11+, 1p, 35', bolts.
S. Slap Happy, 12-, 1p, 50', bolts.
T. Play With Your Balls, 11-, 1p, 50', gear.
U. The Goonch, 13-, 1p, TR.
V. Flying Fish, 12+, 1p, 40', bolts & gear.
WY. Sea Robin aka "Old Hex Route" aka "n" crack, LFD, 8, 1p, 40', gear.
YX. Hammerhead, RFD, 10-, 1p, 40', gear.
Y. Nurse Shark, 9+, 1p, 40', gear.
Z1. Old Man and the Sea, 12, 1p, 45', bolts.
Z2. Old Man And The Sea Direct, 11+ or 12+?, 1p, 45', bolts.
AA. Deepwater Horizon, 12, 1p, 50', bolts.
BB. Land Shark, 11+, 1p, 40', gear.
CC. Bluesfish, 10 PG-13, 1p, 40', gear.
DD. Wooly Bully, 12+, 1p, 50', bolts.
EE. Tiger Shark, 11- PG-13, 1p, 40', gear.
FF. Tiger's Woody, 13-, 1p, 55', bolts.
GG. S.S. Minnow, 7, 1p, 50', gear.
HH. Fluke, 11, 1p, 40', TR.
II. Great Wide Shark, 8-, 1p, 40', gear.

JJ1. Crack var., 9, 1p, 40', gear.
JJ2. Emilia's Corner, 8+, 1p, 40', gear.
JJ3. Dihedral var., 10+, 1p, 40', gear.
KK. Pinnacle, 7, 1p, 40', TR.


Dogs 

According to a Jefferson County Open Space ranger, dogs in the Jefferson County Open Space (including here) should be on leashes.


Climbing Season


39 Total Routes


['4 Stars',4],['3 Stars',16],['2 Stars',17],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',2],['5.8',3],['5.9',3],['5.10',5],['5.11',12],['5.12',11],['5.13',2],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The East Quarry:
S.S. Minnow   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   
Nurse Shark   5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 40'   
Hammerhead   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 40'   
Sea Urchin   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   
Holy Mackerel   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Weakfish   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 40'   
Sand Shark   5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   
Play With Your Balls   5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   
Defective Agency   5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Pretzel Logic   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
High Tide   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   
Slap Happy   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Old Man and the Sea   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 45'   
Hairless Dog   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Deepwater Horizon   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Chum   5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 40'   
Old Man And The Sea Direct   5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 55'   
Flying Fish   5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   
Wooly Bully   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Tiger's Woody   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 55'   
Browse More Classics in The East Quarry

Featured Route For The East Quarry
FA shot! <br /> <br />Photo by Kirk Miller.

Slap Happy 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a  CO : Golden : The East Quarry
There are no face holds to be found as you throw your way up this column.... Gaining the ledge after the crux sequence, good features lead to a tricky move at the anchors. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

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Photos of The East Quarry Slideshow Add Photo
Blooming after the rain.  Thistle.
Blooming after the rain. Thistle.
Sea Robin.
Sea Robin.
Blooming after the rain.
Blooming after the rain.
Sea Robin, higher up the initial crack section. A good but adventurous beginner crack intro to the area.
Sea Robin, higher up the initial crack section. A ...
Blooming after the rain.
Blooming after the rain.
High up on SS Minnow, a fun and easy route.
High up on SS Minnow, a fun and easy route.
The East Quarry Wall. All established routes are visible in this shot. The marked route is Nurse Shark, a stout 9 lead.
BETA PHOTO: The East Quarry Wall. All established routes are v...
The guidebook to the East Quarry "Golden Rock Climbs".
The guidebook to the East Quarry "Golden Rock Clim...
Blooming after the rain.  Prickly pear.
Blooming after the rain. Prickly pear.
Blooming after the rain.
Blooming after the rain.
Blooming after the rain. Vetch?
Blooming after the rain. Vetch?
Blooming after the rain.
Blooming after the rain.
Blooming after the rain.
Blooming after the rain.
Blooming after the rain.  Indian paintbrush.
Blooming after the rain. Indian paintbrush.
The left side of East Quarry on a late December afternoon.
The left side of East Quarry on a late December af...
Comments on The East Quarry Add Comment
Show which comments
By Mark Rolofson
Aug 27, 2010

I have written and am about to publish a new guidebook that will include the climbs at the East Quarry, the other quarries on North Table and the Golden Cliffs. This guide titled "GOLDEN ROCK CLIMBS" will also include the sport climbs at nearby Golden Gate State Park. It should start to be available on September 10, 2010. I enjoy climbing at the East Quarry in the Winter months. It has become my favorite spot on North Table Mountain.

By RyanO
From: sunshine
Sep 13, 2010

Some people like 'em short and dirty, others like 'em long and graceful. Cracks, that is.

Watch out for the rattlers and take the longer trail, the one in the old North Table book is high impact and hard work.

Can't wait to see the new book!

By Mark Rolofson
Oct 12, 2010

"Golden Rock Climbs is now available for $20.00 retail and features 144 pages including 32 cliff diagram photos, 14 climbing photos, topo drawings, maps and text. The new guide includes the basalt climbs of the Golden Cliffs, South Quarry, East Quarry, Sea Cliffs, Crater Crag on North Table Mountain. For the warmer months, it includes the sport climbs of Golden Gate State Park near Dude's Fishing Hole (about 50 granite climbs).

By mike c
From: nederland
Jan 11, 2011

This little quarry has proved more adventurous than I could have imagined...the gear routes here can be serious undertakings, and I would strongly suggest taking gently on some of the gear (aside from some of the bomber cracks) before falling with any significant force...maybe even top rope prior to leading on gear. Most of the harder trad lines were headpointed. There are some solid placements (in between marginal ones) on most of the routes, but most of the landings are severe. All were led ground up in one form or another. I did a little testing of some placements here and took some simulated hard falls. The gear held up for the first few falls pretty well, but after a few more the rock exploded along with the gear... I thought those placements were more sound than they appeared...I am learning new things every day...I can't believe how warm and comfortable it gets up there on cold but sunny winter days. If any one wants to go up and climb there, let me know. I would love to share this amazing resource. We can only keep what we have by giving it away!

By Pinklebear
Jan 21, 2012

Hi,

I found a pair of rock shoes today (Saturday 1/22) sitting out at North Table Mountain's East Quarry area, above Golden. Email me at msamet99@yahoo.com and describe them, and I'll get them back to you.

Thanks!

By maestro
Feb 29, 2012

What's the route to the right of Pinkerton? Bolted. Could go straight up or right over a block?