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The Early Bird Crag

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Angry Birds 
Eagle Tenders 
Eagle's Nest 
Early Bird Arete 
Edge of Glory, The 
Here Comes The Turkey 
Holes In The Universe 
King Cobble 
Raven Ridge 
Rib Cage 
Super Chicken 
Yankee Doodle Arch 
Yankee Magpie 
Yankee Strikes Again, The 

The Early Bird Crag 

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Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: CHopwood on Jul 8, 2012
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BETA PHOTO: The Early Bird Crag and Maple Corridor following the Mapl...


This East facing crag contains 30 routes ranging from 5.1- 5.12. It receives sun all morning and doesn't see a lot of traffic as it is quite hot most of the time. The crag does contain a few multi-pitch routes with The Eagle's Nest 5.10c (5p) being the proudest line on the wall.

Getting There 

Park near the bridge and cross the creek to the North. Walk East along the base of the wall until you reach the sunny east face of the crag. Eagle's Nest and Eagle's Tenders will be the first routes you pass.

14 Total Routes

['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',6],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Early Bird Crag:
Rib Cage   5.5 4b 13 IV+ MS 4a     Sport, 90'   
The Yankee Strikes Again   5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Sport   
Early Bird Arete   5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Sport, 70'   
Eagle Tenders   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Sport, 70'   
Yankee Doodle Arch   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Sport   
King Cobble   5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b     Sport, 90'   
Eagle's Nest   5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b     Sport, 5 pitches, 250'   
Browse More Classics in The Early Bird Crag

Featured Route For The Early Bird Crag
Rib  Cage at Early Bird Crag

Rib Cage 5.5 4b 13 IV+ MS 4a  UT : Maple Canyon : ... : The Early Bird Crag
This is one of the best beginner routes I have done in Maple, along with Bullets Over Bagdad. A really long and fun route with a nice view from the top. It follows the left side of a black arete and so it stays shaded until late morning, unlike the other routes at Early Bird Crag....[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

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By Jesse James
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jun 10, 2013

Lured by the copious amount of stars in the new guidebook, we were un-impressed with the crag overall. Lots of loose stuff, so belayers should definitely wear a helmet. This is probably not the best place for beginners fresh out of the gym, despite the many easier climbs here.

By James Taylor
Jul 6, 2013

Jesse James is right regarding the fact that there seemed to be a lot of loose rock on the crag. However I disagree that it is a horrible place for those transitioning from the gym. In fact I would say the band of 5.1's next to each other are good routes for teaching beginners how to lead and also set / clean top rope anchors on sport routes. It isn't busy and lots of space on the ledge for both a trainer and student.

NOTE: Lots of routes at this crag are not listed in Mountain Project so don't try to count the bolts left to right based on the listing here.