Type: | Boulder, 10 ft (3 m) |
FA: | Bob Kamps |
Page Views: | 2,542 total · 15/month |
Shared By: | sam.f on Jan 13, 2010 |
Admins: | Chris Owen, jt512, Nicole Wiesenthal, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: RAIN & WET ROCK
Details
Stoney Point sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many gyms in the area if you need a fix!
Description
There are several different ways to do this problem... I believe the sit start adds some difficulty (V6?), and, depending on who you ask, a hold may be "off". Hey, it's Stoney; isn't everything an eliminate?
Begin on the lowest hold/holds in the "ear" and either bust out right (good incut) and mantle or mantle from the positive right hand gaston. A semi-good smear for the left foot helps the mantle. Get established, and reach up with the left hand to a small but positive undercling/undercling-gaston then try to stand-up in the "ear". This part may be easier said than done for taller folks. Reach up and right-ish to a decent slimper (slopey-crimper) and top-out using good footholds and jugs.
Begin on the lowest hold/holds in the "ear" and either bust out right (good incut) and mantle or mantle from the positive right hand gaston. A semi-good smear for the left foot helps the mantle. Get established, and reach up with the left hand to a small but positive undercling/undercling-gaston then try to stand-up in the "ear". This part may be easier said than done for taller folks. Reach up and right-ish to a decent slimper (slopey-crimper) and top-out using good footholds and jugs.
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