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 ADVANCED
The Castle
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
5.9 crack climb T 
Betterman T 
Camel Walk, The T 
Castle Corner aka Unnamed 5.10 T 
Dalke - Jennings T 
Dewitt Route T 
Dungeon, The T 
Great Chimney Route T 
Guillotine T 
Hardgumbi's Lament T 
Nose, The T 
Rapunzel T 
Schmauser - Bohannon Route T 
Southeast Gully T 
Throne Room T 
Uncle Wiggly T 
Wiggins Route T 
Winterlude T 
You Can't Chop This T 

The Dungeon 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 350'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 165
Submitted By: Tzilla Rapdrilla on Feb 8, 2013

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BETA PHOTO: Photo for The Dungeon.

Description 

Begin just right of Throne Room and left of Wiggins Route. This route constitutes one of the Platte’s wide adventures.

Pitch 1 – Aim for a bombay chimney about 75’ up reminiscent of The Womb at Looking Glass. Climb up and through that to a belay stance – 5-10+.

Pitch 2 – Climb more wideness, albeit slightly easier than the first pitch – 5.10-.

Pitch 3 – More OW runs to the top of the right hand buttress. Face climbing past bolts and intermittent grooves leads to the top – 5.10.

Location 

It is on the right side of the west face of the Parapet.

Protection 

Gear to 6".


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