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The Druid

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Admiral Throckmorton S 
Bron- yr-aur T 
Corporal Punishment S 
Crap Weasel S 
Druid Roof 
Grips of Wrath, The S 
In Lightning S 
Jack the Slipper S 
Lights Out S 
Lights Out At Ten Candles Out At Eleven S 
Lord Fowelsbain S 
Multi roof ???? S 
No Name T,S 
Of Mice and Men T,S 
Paganizer, The S 
Rupley's Believe It Or Not T 
Unsorted Routes:

The Druid 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Page Views: 12,677
Administrators: Greg Opland, James DeRoussel, JJ Schlick, Hendrixson, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: James DeRoussel on Sep 6, 2002
Forecast:
Sun Mon Tue Wed Thu
Mostly Cloudy
77° | 57°
Chance of a Thunderstorm
77° | 57°
Partly Cloudy
80° | 58°
Partly Cloudy
85° | 58°
Chance of Rain
82° | 58°
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sunset from atop the druid

Description 

The Druid is a great locale most of the year. The base of most of the climbs are shaded by nice pines, so its easy to stay cool when the heat is on. It also offers some spectacular views of the city.

There are a lot of clip-ups, as well as some gear leads here. With ratings ranging from 5.5 to 5.11+ and routes up to two pitches long, there is something for everyone. There is also lots of easy toproping to be done at the far right end of the crag.

Recommended routes include In Lightning (5.8), and The Gripes of Wrath (5.10), among others.


Getting There 

Driving up the Catalina Highway, turn left on Organization Ridge Rd. just before the Palisades Ranger Station. Take this dirt road toward Shower's Point Campground. Park in the pullout just past the right turn into the campground. Walk through the campground and up a gated dirt road for a couple hundred yards. When the road turns right, look for a trail leading off left into the forest. Follow this trail down a ridge for another few hundred yards to the back of the Druid.

When you see the back of the Druid, veer left and pick up a good trail leading down to the face with climbs. If you are bushwhacking, try again. The trail is fairly obvious.

If you are planning to camp, remember that Shower's Point is a group campground requiring advanced reservations.


16 Total Routes


['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',9],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',2],['5.7',0],['5.8',2],['5.9',3],['5.10',6],['5.11',3],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Druid:
In Lightning   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 2 pitches, 180'   
Of Mice and Men   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Lights Out At Ten Candles Out At Eleven   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 60'   
Lord Fowelsbain   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport   
Bron- yr-aur   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   
Lights Out   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 30'   
Browse More Classics in The Druid

Featured Route For The Druid
Andy Cummens belays Tom Lind up the first pitch.

In Lightning 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c  AZ : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : ... : The Druid
Following James DeRoussel's description for the crag, In Lightning will be one of the first routes you encounter. Look for the continuous bolt line that ends about 120' up the crag; it lies immediately to the left of two other bolted lines that have their anchors halfway up. Follow the bolts to the two-bolt anchor. For the second pitch, it is wise to move the belay 40' to the large, flat ledge to the right. The moves to the ledge are unprotected Class 4. The ledge is devoid of anchors,...[more]   Browse More Classics in AZ

Photos of The Druid Slideshow Add Photo
Cactus bloom at The Druid.  May 2009.
Cactus bloom at The Druid. May 2009.
"Scott Hamilton" on a 5.10 route left of "In Lightning" called East of Eden? The one with the Hammer In Spikes!
"Scott Hamilton" on a 5.10 route left of "In Light...
Suzy bouldering at base of Druid, early 90s
BETA PHOTO: Suzy bouldering at base of Druid, early 90s
Perhaps the same cactus bloom? May 2013.
Perhaps the same cactus bloom? May 2013.
Comments on The Druid Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Mar 17, 2013
By Anonymous Coward
Feb 21, 2003

Be carefull during monsoon season! Storms here can drop over you in 5 minutes from blue skies. Been struck by lightning there on one occasion. We were lucky, but why push your luck!? Otherwise extremely fun climbing! Definately a classic Mt. Lemmon crag.James Higginson

By Vincent Greene
Jul 4, 2004

GPS coordinates N32.40555 W110.72532 7772 ft

By BFobar
Jul 23, 2006

Today we hiked out to climb the druid but had to take a hour detour to find a ranger and enough water to put out a huge smoldering log at the fire pit at the top of the druid. Apparantly some climbers came out there saturday night and camped. While camp/climbing is fun, please remember the following:

1. follow posted guidelines for camp fires. (in this case it is a permit from the ranger station.)

2. Please put your fire out all the way. Please use good sense and not drag the bench logs into the fire and then leave.

3. Please pack your trash out. I do not appreciate having to make room to pack out another party's zillion cigarette buts, 8 beer cans (Tecate and Coors), and other miscalenous crap out of the fire pit and from the base of the climbs.

Most folks reading this will already know how to show respect to their fellow climbers and know where I'm coming from. As we were leaving the druid, a monsoon was breaking nearby, but going the other way, giving no moisture and 45mph winds. Had we not put that log out, it could have started a fire in one of the few areas that was relatively undamaged by the recent forest fires in the Catalinas.

By 1Eric Rhicard
Jul 29, 2006

Have to agree with Andy on this. Why would you assume it was a climber that camped there? Odds are it wasn't. Besides what climber would waste their money on Tecate and Coors. We know it wasn't Sparky!

By GDS
Aug 4, 2006

Once again, 'Sparky speaks' the truth.

By Joseph Stover
From: Batesville, AR
Aug 27, 2006

Is there a new(unlisted) route between Grip(e)s and In Lightning?

By arjunmh
From: Phoenix, AZ
Jun 15, 2009

Very sweet, cool summer short wall that's fun for an afternoon in the shade. The 10+ route not listed just to the left of Lightning is super fun, with a crux midway up through a thin, steep section. Looked like an 8 from below, but crimpy once on it. The photo on this page shows the small roof at the bottom of the climb.

By John Hayes
From: Bend, OR
Jun 1, 2011

This last Saturday (5/28/11) on our way to the Druid, Dave Jones and I were confronted by the Shower Point group-use area host and informed that he is collecting a $1.00 toll from everyone who passes through the area. He ultimately let us go without paying, so keep in mind that a little diplomacy goes a long way if you run into the same situation. I have written a letter to the district ranger questioning this activity. I don't believe that the concessionaires have any right to collect tolls from anyone who is merely trying to access public lands blocked by the fee use area--particularly when none of the facilities are even used. I understand that this same thing has occurred at the Rose Canyon area as well. I'll post a response when I hear back from the ranger. In the meantime, my advice is to keep a low profile when you hike through these areas.

By John Hayes
From: Bend, OR
Jun 28, 2011

I just heard from the district forest ranger confirming that the concessionaires should not be charging anyone anything to simply pass through ANY campground on Mt. Lemon. Word has officially gone out so don't let anyone hassle you about paying a toll to get to a climbing area if you have to walk through a campground.

By Hendrixson
Administrator
From: Tucson, AZ
Jun 25, 2012

There are two sport routes not listed in the guidebook. Anyone know what these are:

1) Starts from a ledge near Rupley's Believe It Or Not. Ascends a tiered vertical face. From a distance looks 5.11.

2) Located on the backside of the Druid between Rupley's Believe It Or Not and Thingfish. Climbs a blank looking vertical or slightly overhung face. From a distance looks 5.12+.

By 1Eric Rhicard
Jun 26, 2012

Might be the TR I listed as a completed route Roman Opposition. Meant to bolt and lead it but never got around to it. Should get it done if this is not one of the ones you are looking at.

By Hendrixson
Administrator
From: Tucson, AZ
Jun 26, 2012

Eric, if Roman Opposition is immediately to the left of Thingfish it is fully bolted. It looks like a good route on nice clean orange rock. The bolts and anchor style matched Thingfish.

By 1Eric Rhicard
Jun 26, 2012

Probably a route of Scotts.

By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Jun 27, 2012

A urinalysis should help clear it up.

By Hendrixson
Administrator
From: Tucson, AZ
Jun 28, 2012

We got on a route called Crap Weasel not Thingfish. Hence Roman Opposition is still waiting for you Eric.

By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Jun 28, 2012

Hahahaha very clever name!

I think "Crap Bolted" would be more appropriate. :)

By Bane
From: Flagstaff AZ
Mar 17, 2013

The climbs at this crag have a more serious feel then other sport crags on the mountain. The climbing is technical and be prepared to meander a bit to stay in grade.