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Anfiteatro
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Al Centro y Adentro 
Coriolis Effect, The 
Doppler Effect, The 
Flakes of Wrath 

The Doppler Effect 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Trad, 16 pitches, 1900', Grade IV
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Chris Kalman, Chris Moore, Cooper Varney
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 923
Submitted By: Chris Kalman on Mar 16, 2013
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BETA PHOTO: Route line in red.

Description 

The Doppler Effect climbs the beautiful Northwest Arete of Pared del Tiempo in the Anfiteatro. The bottom two pitches are 5.6R dirty bush pulling, and not very good. But the fantastic third pitch dihedral will instantly make you forget the two approach pitches. After that, the route sticks mostly to the true knife edge arete, following 13 more pitches and tagging two mini-summits on the way to the beautiful summit of Cerro Laguna. The stellar 12b tips crack can easily be aided, or avoided altogether by climbing an easier pitch to the left. No matter how you go, the summit can be achieved by 5.10 C1 climbing. There are some slightly dirty pitches, but the route has a distinctly alpine feel, and the rock is always clean when you need it to be. One of a kind in Cochamo, this steep ridge route is not to be missed!


Location 

Find specific approach/descent beta in the refugio.


Protection 

doubles up to #3, #4 (Can leave after the pitch 7 OW), nuts, and a good variety of small camming units (purple tcu up to yellow) to protect the crux pitch however you like. An extra .75, or .5 may be nice for pitch 3 if you like to sew up laybacks. 12 slings/runners, one double length can be useful.



Photos of The Doppler Effect Slideshow Add Photo
The stellar V-slot!
The stellar V-slot!
The crux pitch.  Here's Cooper after the send, enjoying the 5.10 splitter fingers to the top.
The crux pitch. Here's Cooper after the send, enj...
C.Mo and Coop on the second mini-summit.
C.Mo and Coop on the second mini-summit.
Cooper on the scenic pitch 8 arete
Cooper on the scenic pitch 8 arete
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