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The Don Juan Boulder is a boulder on the backside of Nora's Wall. In a grassy medow. Most people today know it as "The Mood Swings Boulder." The boulder has 3 problems that I know of. The problem Mood Swings (V10) was an old Larry Schafer project. The story of this boulder is a interesting one. None the less it doesn't see much traffic. There is another problem on the backside opposite of Mood Swings that looks kind of similar to a mini Orange Roughy. ( Orange Roughy V6 is a classic problem at Old Baldy, Rushmore.) this problem seems about the same grade if not harder but I have never climbed it so don't take my word on it.
When coming from the Sylvan Lake Parking Lot by the General Store. Head around the lake towards the Dam. A little before the corridor that takes you to the back of Sulvan via the stairs. If you look to your left there is a small old Tarmac road. You can either take this or you CAN go through the corridor that takes you down the stairs and to the backside of the lake. Option 1 The Tarmac road will bring you to the Managers cabin. Option 2 once your at the bottom of the stairs leading to the backside hang a left on a faint trail the goes in front of Backside Damn Boulder aka Homestar Boulder. Follow this trail and it brings you to the Managers cabin. Both options bring you to the Cabin. NOW once at the cabin take a right on a well defined trail till you are about even with Outer outlet a small single track trail appears on the left. Follow this up the hill till you enter into a meadow. The Don Juan Boulder sits in this meadow. Another way of looking at it is when facing the Managers cabin. Nora's wall is the obvious wall to the left of the cabin that runs Paralell to the travel road that would bring you to the cabin. The boulder is directly behind this wall. WOW might be over kill for a Getting There Description. Rather give to much than to little...
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Featured Route For The Don Juan Boulder
Mood Swings V10 7C+ SD : Custer State Park : ... : The Don Juan Boulder
Sit start on small incuts on the right corner the start alone is pretty thin. About 3 moves in you good a decent crimp. Traverse on incuts that follow a shallow seam. In the middle of the boulder is a tricky match as you cut your feet. I have seen other beta but this seems to be the standard. Finish up the seam as it goes upward at the other end of the boulder and small mantle over the overhang to top out....[more] Browse More Classics in SD
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