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The Dome

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Black Plague 
Cozy Overhang 
Cozyhang 
Cozyhang 10a Variation 
Cozyhang Alt. Finish 
Cozyhang Out 
Direct 
Dome Girdle 
E of East Slab East 
East Face, Far Right 
East Face, Farthest Right 
East of the Sun 
East Slab 
East Slab East 
Evening Stroll 
Familiar Face 
Gorilla's Delight 
Groove 
Left Edge 
Owl, The 
Pinnacle 
Prelude to King Kong 
Pussy Cat 
Signs Of Life 
Super Squeeze 
Umph Slot, The 

The Dome 


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Location: 40.0139, -105.3079 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 139,193
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Ben Mottinger on Jan 1, 2001
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BETA PHOTO: Routes on The Dome:

1. Prelude to King Kong
Le...
Flood damaged road reopens MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Being very close to Boulder and south-facing make this a popular rock. It is a good crag for winter days. It's a huge slab, with lots of cuts and cracks to run up. No top-roping or sport climbs are here, but then many fun, multi-pitch climbs are great for beginner leaders. Access off the top is via scrambling down either the east or west.

L->R the starts are:

A. Evening Stroll, 10+ R, 2p, 140', gear.
B. Prelude to King Kong, 9, 1p, 110', gear.
C. Black Plague, 10+ R, 1p, 50', gear.
D. Pinnacle, 10- or 10+, 1p, 70', gear.
E. Left Edge, 7, 2p, 200', gear.
F. Super Squeeze, 11-, 2p, 200', gear.
G. Umph Slot, 10+, 2p, 200', gear.
H. The Owl, 7, 2-3p, 200', gear.
I. Direct?, 10+ R, 2p, 200', gear.
J. Cozyhang, 7+, 2-3p, 200', gear.
K. East of the Sun, 7, 2p, 200', gear.
L. East Slab, 6, 1-2p, 200', gear.
M. East Slab East, 6, 1-2p, 200', gear
N. E of East Slab East, 7, 1p, gear.
O. East Face, Far Right, 7, 1p, 70', gear.
P. East Face, Farthest Right, 7, 1p, 100', gear.

These routes start above the ground:

AA. Gorilla's 105760317Delight, 9, 1p, 100', gear.
BB. Familiar Face?, 10 R, 1p, gear.
CC. Cozy Overhang, 10, 1p, gear.
DD. Signs Of Life, 10, 1p, 150', gear.
EE. Groove?, 10+, 1p, gear.
FF. Pussycat?, 10, 1p, gear.


Getting There 

0.5 miles from the entrance to Boulder Canyon is a straightaway with huge turnoffs on both side of the road. Park and walk north across the footbridge. Turn right and follow the new trail up to the aqueduct. Go left to the trail heading up to the base of the Dome.


26 Total Routes


['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',8],['2 Stars',12],['1 Star',5],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',2],['5.7',7],['5.8',0],['5.9',4],['5.10',12],['5.11',1],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Dome:
East Slab East   5.6 4c 14 V S 4b     Trad, 1 pitch   
East Slab   5.6 4c 14 V S 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 200'   
E of East Slab East   5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch   
East of the Sun   5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   
Cozyhang   5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b     Trad, 3 pitches   
The Owl   5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b     Trad, 2 pitches   
Signs Of Life   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 150'   
Prelude to King Kong   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch   
Cozyhang Out   5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 30'   
Gorilla's Delight   5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch   
Cozyhang 10a Variation   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 40'   
The Umph Slot   5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b     Trad, 2 pitches, 150'   
Browse More Classics in The Dome

Featured Route For The Dome
Sonya Gary following the East Slab on a perfect evening.

East Slab 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b  CO : Boulder Canyon : The Dome
This can be done in 1 or 2 pitches.Start up a small dihedral (5.6) or take an easier start to the right (5.5). Follow the crack over a bulge, then onto the large face. Keep following the right crack to the roof. Either turn the roof at a dihedral to the left (red), which is the same finish to East of the Sun or take a crack straight up from the route.Descent: walk off to the right side of the Dome. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Photos of The Dome Slideshow Add Photo
The Dome at sunset in the spring time.
The Dome at sunset in the spring time.
Well lighted view of The Dome.
Well lighted view of The Dome.
The Dome.
BETA PHOTO: The Dome.
1st granite lead (1972), East Slab 5.6.
1st granite lead (1972), East Slab 5.6.
The Dome as it appears from the bridge. Photo by Tony Bubb, K2K.
The Dome as it appears from the bridge. Photo by T...
Early climbing on the Dome, note shoes, harness and nuts.
Early climbing on the Dome, note shoes, harness an...
Comments on The Dome Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jan 25, 2014
By JVonD
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 11, 2001

I can't believe it.. So a couple months ago I was with a small party climbing the right face. My buddy Ed and I get to the tree and I decided to set up a rappel with a long cordelette line (so everyone climbing that day could use it.) We rapp down and start on another climb. I saw some guys climbing up and I asked them not to take my rapp off the top. He was looking at me funny. So we top out another climb and someone stole my frickin rapp line. Can you believe this. WHATS NEXT???Ron Kauk's boots? (Moral of story, Look out for Dumb-Ass thieves.)

By Paul G
Sep 30, 2002

At the top of the gully between Elephant Buttress and the Dome there's a 20 foot granite cliff that can be top roped. Might be good for warming up a beginner or practicing belays before heading doing multi pitch nearby.

By Anonymous Coward
Oct 29, 2002

Climber Scott Hamilton died Saturday while soloing on the Dome. www.dailycamera.com/bdc/county_news/0,1713,BDC_2423,00.html

By William McGehee
From: Choctaw, OK
Nov 23, 2002

I don't know about dumb ass thieves JV... I was there this afternoon and an older gentleman found a flat/triangular topped winter hat. It was dark, maybe black. He asked if it was mine and I said no. I forgot to get it from him to post the find here. My sincerest apologies whomever it belongs to. Perhaps it is still there. Worth the check...~WM

By Shawn Shannon
From: Everett, WA
Jan 12, 2003

A little hope for anyone thinking people are getting worse.... I dropped three biners off the belay ledge on Cozyhang and got a large hex stuck in a crack that my partner couldn't remove. We finished and went up Owl. I met a climber at the shared belay with Cozyhang and he offered me our hex that he had already removed. He also noticed the biners I was using and offered the one he found on the hillside that matched mine... I figured they were sacrifices to the rock gods, but I saved some money thanks to some honest climbers.

By Anonymous Coward
Jan 13, 2003

A carabiner that has been dropped like that should be thrown out. Although you can't be certain without x-ray analysis, the carabiner may have gotten fractured from the impact. Better to replace and be out 5 bucks.

By Joshua Merriam
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 29, 2007

That microfracture theory has been disproved.

(I just like to point this out whenever I hear it spread in hopes of quashing it)

By Bob Carmichael
Aug 19, 2007

Hi:

I left HALF my rack of DMM wiregate quick draws at the Dome last Monday.
If you my chance found them please notifiy me at
bcarmic@earthlink.net

These were really nice draws and I know it is my mistake for having left them but good karma says return to user...

thanks

BC

By Bob Carmichael
Aug 19, 2007

I left this stuff at the base of the Cozyhang. I know it's dumb but if someone is wondering who to return the DMM wire gate biners and draws to

bcarmic@earthlink.net

Gracias

BC

By Goat
From: Boulder
Jun 27, 2009

What if you then cannot get your knot out of the crack?

By Phil Lauffen
From: The Bubble
Jun 27, 2009

I'll probably start cutting off fingers, jamming them like chockstones, untie, run the rope behind them, and retie.

But as you can see this decreases the amount of climbing I can do in my life considerably.

By D. Shaw
Sep 30, 2009

We did this late Sept, 2009. I have done it maybe 10 times, starting 25 years ago, but hadn't done it in 8 years. I on-sighted a 10c sport route a few days ago without difficulty, and I have to say, this route is more interesting and wild than the 10c. Lots of pins are gone now, that used to help protect it, and the ones that are there don't look reliable to me. The polish has increased substantially, making the traverse up to the first belay, and just after, seem harder now. In honor of the old guard who probably did this route in boots with nails, I'll leave the rating alone, but a beginning 5.7 leader (is there any such thing anymore?) who tried to on-sight this puppy would probably call for a rescue chopper!

By Coury Ditch
From: Boulder, Colorado
Jan 25, 2014

Left my helmet here on MLK day (beginning of this week), either at the top or over by the start of the owl. Beers for its captor! It's a red Mammut.

Email is: Cmditch at gmail dot com.

Thanks!