The Doil 5.8
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 65 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.8 [details] |
| FA: | Unknown |
| Submitted By: | toddgordon on May 3, 2007 |
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The Doil.
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Description This climb starts on where Nutcracker ends. It ascents a formation that looks a bit like a drumstick. Stem, hands, chimney to the top and rap to the base from slings on a chockstone. Then walk off left.
Location Starts where Nutcrack ends; on the left side of the 100-yard wall.
Protection standard desert rack
Ahh, a nice rest spot.
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The fun handcrack start.
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Climbing and having fun.
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Being swallowed alive by the chimney.
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Steps that lead to the climb
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By toddgordon
From: Joshua Tree, California
May 3, 2007
| I did this climb (along with the Nutcracker) in the early 1980's, with Doug Smith. I found the climbing O K, but the rock was rather sandy. Still;...there aren't too many "easy" , short climbs near the road;..here's one to do. Combined with Nutcracker, you got 2 pitches. Try it on for size. |
By Darren Knezek
Nov 3, 2007
rating: 5.8
| I thought that this climb was about as good as 5.8 gets for the desert. A few big blocks that lead up to a killer hand crack in a chimney of sorts. Great gear the entire way and a small training climb for the easy 5.10's at Indian Creek. |
By BenCooper
From: Olympia, WA
Nov 1, 2008
| When I climbed the route (Oct. 2008), the chockstone anchor was still there, but the main anchor were two drilled angles, which appeared and felt much more solid than the old anchor. |
By Josh Cameron
Jun 12, 2011
| I agree with you Darren, this climb is almost classic for a desert 5.8. Not sure which I enjoyed more: the killer handcrack or climbing the handcrack into the chimney.
Great pro the whole way. |
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