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The 100-yard Wall
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Doil, The T 
Fledgling T 
Nutcracker T 

The Doil 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 65'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 4,559
Submitted By: toddgordon on May 3, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (15)
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The Doil.

Read about Anchor Replacement and Restrictions in Arches National Park MORE INFO >>>


This climb starts on where Nutcracker ends. It ascents a formation that looks a bit like a drumstick. Stem, hands, chimney to the top and rap to the base from slings on a chockstone. Then walk off left.


Starts where Nutcrack ends; on the left side of the 100-yard wall.


standard desert rack

Photos of The Doil Slideshow Add Photo
Being swallowed alive by the chimney.
Being swallowed alive by the chimney.
Ahh, a nice rest spot.
Ahh, a nice rest spot.
Climbing and having fun.
Climbing and having fun.
The fun handcrack start.
The fun handcrack start.
Steps that lead to the climb
Steps that lead to the climb

Comments on The Doil Add Comment
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By toddgordon
From: Joshua Tree, California
May 3, 2007

I did this climb (along with the Nutcracker) in the early 1980's, with Doug Smith. I found the climbing O K, but the rock was rather sandy. Still;...there aren't too many "easy" , short climbs near the road;..here's one to do. Combined with Nutcracker, you got 2 pitches. Try it on for size.
By Darren Knezek
Nov 3, 2007
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I thought that this climb was about as good as 5.8 gets for the desert. A few big blocks that lead up to a killer hand crack in a chimney of sorts. Great gear the entire way and a small training climb for the easy 5.10's at Indian Creek.
By BenCooper
Nov 1, 2008

When I climbed the route (Oct. 2008), the chockstone anchor was still there, but the main anchor were two drilled angles, which appeared and felt much more solid than the old anchor.
By Josh Cameron
From: Moab, Colorado
Jun 12, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I agree with you Darren, this climb is almost classic for a desert 5.8. Not sure which I enjoyed more: the killer handcrack or climbing the handcrack into the chimney.

Great pro the whole way.
By Sam A.
From: San Antonio, TX
Jul 23, 2014

Can you do this climb with passive pro, or are cams needed?
By Jedly
May 11, 2015
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

This was my favorite 5.8 crack in Moab!! Great gear placement and a solid line. I did this after doing Nutcracker below and it was about 2 stars better. Nutcracker was awkward and sandy. Plus, me and my girl did this on a weekend and NO ONE was around! I think cuz I didn't see it in any guidebook.
Climbing The Doil in Arches.
Climbing The Doil in Arches.
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