The Dog 5.12a
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| Type: | TR, 1 pitch, 50 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.12a [details] |
| FA: | First Lead: Jason Huston, 2006 |
| Submitted By: | Jay Knower on Aug 10, 2005 |
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Rhoads worked on this all day long and on his 4th ...
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Description Are you planning a trip to Jackson Falls, or maybe to The Red? If so, you could do no better than to climb "The Dog" beforehand.
An overhanging arete unique to the Lake, "The Dog" feels like a sport route. Expect powerful, steep moves instead of the typical thin, crypto-technical moves found on many of DL's 5.12's. If you want to get strong, then look no further than "The Dog." If you want to get uber-strong, then start by doing laps on "The Dog."
To locate "The Dog," first locate The End. Start on The End's starting holds, but traverse right, eventually weaving an "S" path back left to the arete. From here, follow the steep arete to the top.
What, you have reached the top with nary a razor crimp encountered? That, my friend, is the joy of "The Dog."
Protection Toprope.
BETA PHOTO: For those somewhat confused by the guidebook descr...
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Mr. Mix getting into the business.
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By JJ Schlick
Administrator
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Sep 27, 2006
| This was once an arcane Cleveland TR ignored by the masses until Dave G and Rich B breathed life back into it around the middle eighties. As the story goes, Rich came down from firing it and said, "we will simply refer to this one as the Dog F..ker." Ahh, the good ole days of few sensitivities. A very fun line if you don't mind eliminates, and like Jay said, it is a very non-archetypal 12 at the lake. |
By Tom Petraitis
From: Evanston, IL
May 4, 2009
rating: 5.11d
| I was lucky enough to arrive late enough this Saturday morning to see two guys pulling their toprope from The Dog, and they suggested I go for it... plus the rope can be used to climb The End 5.10a/b just as well. They said it had just a few hard moves down low... and "the rest was easy". I found the "hard" moves in the middle of the "S" (the traverse left back to the arete), but I chose not to continue to the arete. My experience on DL 12s is a sustained level of difficulty, so I turned right looking for more hard climbing. I think I found "holds" on the route Ice (5.13) that I just couldn't handle. After falling enough to guess I was off route I followed the middle of the "S" traverse over to the arete and finished surprisingly easily. On my second attempt I stayed on route and sent it. Should have listened to those two guys! Really fun climb! But not as hard as I expected for a DL 12. |
By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
May 4, 2009
| I'm no expert but if you went right that's Dyslexia right? Not ICE... |
By Tom Petraitis
From: Evanston, IL
May 4, 2009
rating: 5.11d
| Chrit treggE, you're correct. I had veered onto Dyslexia 13a/b not Ice (and it felt 13-something hard!). I didn't bother looking at the route listings. Lazy me. Thanks for the clarification! I almost got thru the first crux. I am sure I saw the sequence. I gotta go back and try some more. |
By Trad Nanny
Apr 5, 2013
| There's probably confusion on which holds are "on" this one. The key is to first acknowledge that there are in fact small holds contrary to the description (sorry Jay) and that after completing the traverse and matching on the pinch jug you must use your LEFT hand on the next higher crimp to set your self on the arete proper. Using your right pushes you into The End.
Classic moves and an impressive lead from Huston. |
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