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 ADVANCED
Overview & Waterfall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Awakening S 
Blaupunkt S 
Cold Ass Honkies S 
Dodgy Vixen, The S 
Hair Nation T 
Hysteria S 
Sportklettern S 
Totally High Maintenance S 
Variation to Hysteria S 

The Dodgy Vixen 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: T. Kuss
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 276
Submitted By: Tim Kuss on Apr 6, 2011

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BETA PHOTO: "Dodgy Vixen" in blue. "Totally High" red. What ar...

Description 

Like the dodgy vixen we all know, this leads you to believe that it's going to be easy and sweet. Then it starts getting kind of gnarly and then really friken' difficult. Start by liebacking the gamble oak leaning against the lip of the cave. Hop on the rock clipping bolts across the slab and up the corner/arete (use a long sling on the fourth bolt). Traverse the ledge right, to the obvious bolt line, (long slings on fifth and eighth bolts) through soft huecos and a big overhang and headwall.


Location 

50 feet left of the waterfall, look for the big gamble oak leaning against the lip of the cave. This shares the start (first four bolts) with Hysteria and Totally High Maintenance.


Protection 

Twelve bolts. Bring three long slings for the fourth, fifth, and eighth bolts to reduce rope drag. There are fixed anchor with biners for lowering. There are security cameras afixed on the anchor to catch biner thieves (slow death penalty). If you take biners 'cause they're worn out, leave your own then.



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By chris schulte
Mar 8, 2012

Hiya Tim-
Is this the route that I think it is, with a pretty obvious, softball-sized pocket if you start on the tree? There is (or was, soft rock) a V8/9 boulder problem into what I think this route is, going up a short, left-facing sort of dihedral, though I topped out (R) to the right. Fixed pin at the lip of the cave?
Best to y'all down there, miss it.

By Dylan Weldin
From: Austin, Texas
Mar 25, 2012
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

Is this the route that pulls hueco jugs to a steep roof surmounted by crankin' on some epoxied crimps?

By Christopher Barlow
Mar 26, 2012
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

Big huecos to crankin' on epoxied crimps over a bulge sounds about right. If one is standing at the tree that begins the routes (identified by a bolt near the tree), this is the line that climbs the tree then goes furthest right. Really cool climbing if one ignores the hollowness of the big huecos.