Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Skyline Wall (PATC Wall)
Select Route:
Dobie Gillis Route, The T 
Fern Crack T 
Piton Crack T 
Psychobabble T 
Rusty Bong T 
unnamed highball 
Waste Age S 

The Dobie Gillis Route 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Unknown
Season: Spring-Fall,warmer winter days
Page Views: 2,675
Submitted By: Cultivating Mass on Aug 11, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Dobie Gillis. A rather notorious ascent which star...

Description 

Nice crack climbing to a bolt, then traverse to anchors. Fun route, bring tape.

Location 

Find Waste Age, the tough-looking 50 foot bolted face. Dobie is just to the left, and ends by traversing right to the same anchors.

Protection 

Std rack and 1 bolt.


Photos of The Dobie Gillis Route Slideshow Add Photo
Base of Dobie Gillis
Base of Dobie Gillis
view from the left of the route, cant see crack well, but can see line follows crack up to slab.
BETA PHOTO: view from the left of the route, cant see crack we...
Nick at the first bolt.
Nick at the first bolt.
First time on Dobie Gillis.
First time on Dobie Gillis.

Comments on The Dobie Gillis Route Add Comment
Show which comments
By C Runyan
From: Pennsylvania
Oct 6, 2008

The ancient fixed pins at the anchor have been replaced with bolts. I believe the route's single bolt 3/4 the way has been replaced as well - it looks new and super solid, anyway.

Thanks to whoever took the time do make this popular climb much more safe.
By NickViator
From: Denver, CO
Jan 2, 2011

It's fun to climb this route up to the bolts then bring some larger cams (1"-3" or so) to traverse right in the horizontal crack that continues right of the bolts.
By David Raines
Jul 3, 2013

Short route, but a little bit of everything -
- finger cracks
- hand cracks
- stemming and face moves
- slab finish

I'd say all 4 of those styles go around 5.8, so its a good challenge for a 5.8 leader. Just wish it was longer.