Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Dizzy Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Dizzy Channel, The S 
Fish Pin S 

The Dizzy Channel 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, 4 pitches, 270'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Matthew Selman, 2012
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 945
Submitted By: Matt Selman on Apr 28, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Jason Stevens and Matt Selman on the second pitch ...

Description 

The Dizzy Channel is a moderate jaunt up the northwestern corner of Dizzy Rock. The route is well protected, with great exposure and excellent views of Maple.

Pitch 1 - The Hidey Hole: Follow the bolts as they meander through the best/cleanest sections of rock, climbing through a couple of short steep sections to a two-bolt belay in a pod. Keep your eyes peeled for the Hidey Hole, a deep, dark, fist-sized spider hole. 5.7.

Pitch 2: Take off up the arete from the belay. Walk the narrow ledge to the base of the tower bloc, and follow four bolts to a belay at its summit. 5.6.

Pitch 3: Step across to the wall of Dizzy Rock proper and follow the bolts up, paralleling the water streak on your right. Less-than-vertical terrain leads to the short, steep crux overhang. Jugs save the day here. Belay from two bolts on Shoe Leather Ledge just after the crux. 5.8.

Pitch 4: Follow the bolt line to chains just below the summit. 5.6.
To reach the true summit, the leader can either climb through this section and belay from steel pipes embedded on the summit, or bring the second up to the belay and scramble to the top. Either way itís one or two easy fifth-class moves to reach the summit.

The Dizzy Channel is set up to be climbed in four pitches, but by skipping a few bolts or bringing along a few extra draws, pitches 1-2 and 3-4 can be combined. Be aware, however, that the staircase shape of the route can create drag.

Location 

Approach:
The Dizzy Channel ascends the northwest arete of Dizzy Rock. Walk up along the base, passing the route Fish Pin, until you are under the steep overhanging arete. The route begins on less-steep terrain just around the arete.

Descent:
Three options exist for the descent. It is possible to rappel the route with a single 60 meter rope. A more direct rappel, however, can be found by scrambling down 15 feet to climberís left from the final belay. Here a set of chains marks the top of Fish Pin, which can be descended with a 60 meter rope in a straight series of three rappels. If youíre rappelling, this is the recommended option. Finally, it is possible (and quite pleasant) to walk off the route from the summit of Dizzy Rock. A bit of third- and fourth-class scrambling to the south takes you off the summit of the formation and onto the rolling grassy bench that is the west rim of the Left Hand Fork. From here, either walk a faint trail south and down into the Left Hand Fork, or drop into a steep gully to the north and descend almost directly to the base of The Dizzy Channel.

Protection 

All bolts. 12 draws will suffice.


Photos of The Dizzy Channel Slideshow Add Photo
Dizzy Rock as viewed from the Schoolroom parking area. <em>The Dizzy Channel</em> starts out of sight at the base of the arete.
BETA PHOTO: Dizzy Rock as viewed from the Schoolroom parking a...
Jason Stevens atop the tower on the second pitch of <em>The Dizzy Channel</em>.
Jason Stevens atop the tower on the second pitch o...
Jason Stevens tops out on the last pitch of <em>The Dizzy Channel</em>.
Jason Stevens tops out on the last pitch of The Di...
Jason Stevens just below the crux of <em>The Dizzy Channel</em>.
Jason Stevens just below the crux of The Dizzy Cha...
This photo shows Fish Pin (5.10c***) in green and is the authors recommended option for the descent of the Dizzy Channel.
BETA PHOTO: This photo shows Fish Pin (5.10c***) in green and ...

Comments on The Dizzy Channel Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jason Stevens
From: Ephraim, UT
May 3, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

This is a super fun route, the best kind of adventure. It is well protected, has great belays out of harms way and has a fantastic summit. A Dr. Pepper machine on the summit is the only thing that would make it better.

Well done, Selman. Well done.
By Brian Koralewski
From: Springville, Utah
May 12, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

This route was bolted very well. Unfortunately it is very dirty and very mossy. 2 baseball size rocks popped out on the first 3 bolts of the route. The crux is pulling over a bulge on dirty rocks on the 3rd pitch. It was a fun climb in any case.
By Jason Stevens
From: Ephraim, UT
May 15, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

They all start that way, BK. Selman did his due diligence...I know he spent at least 8 hours cleaning the route. She'll clean up nice and tidy.
By Manilius
Dec 3, 2012

Another great addition to the store of Maple multi-pitch moderates. The route follows a somewhat exposed arete for the majority of the start and ends with some face climbing with a two or three move crux over a bulge. Highly recommended.
By Jimmymac222
From: South Jordan, UT
Oct 26, 2013

Route is cleaning up well. Fun climbing and excellent views. Nice work Matt.
By Kevin Stauffer
Sep 6, 2014

We a rappel from the top of pitch 2 to the ground with a 60 m rope, but it was just barely touching. If you try that make sure you start at the middle. Some of the scrambles made us a bit nervous having all that rope out and no bolts.