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Pitchoff Chimney Cliff
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Dynamo Hum T 
El, The T 
Great Chimney T 
Lonely, The T 
Pete's Farewell T 
PF Flyers T 
Raging Raven S 
Roaches on the Wall T 
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The Disputed 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: S. Peter Lewis & Mark Arsenault - 1979
Page Views: 586
Submitted By: Greg Kuchyt on Jul 31, 2009

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Description 

Begin at the P1 belay of Pete's Farewell and head straight up from the belay for the ledge about 10 feet above the spacious belay ledge with the obvious hand crack above. An awkward and intimidating couple of moves gains the crack (crux). Above, the crack lets up a little and becomes a little blocky and then widens into a small overhang. Pull through and continue through easier terrain to the fixed anchor.


Location 

Start: At the P1 belay of Pete's Farewell.
Descent: There are two bolts at the top of the route. Rappel into the chimney and either join with the 2nd rap anchor for Pete's Farewell or proceed to the ground (a rope stretcher on a 60m rope).
NOTE:DO NOT try to rappel the face of the Chimney Cliff, a 60m will end up being about 15' shy.


Protection 

Gear to C4 #3 size, possibly a C4 #4-sized piece if you wish. Doubles in C4 size .75-1" could be helpful depending on your comfort level.
There are two bolts with rap rings attached via quick-links at the top.



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By Chris Duca
Administrator
From: Havertown, PA
Aug 1, 2009

Rappelling the route with a 70m rope will get to the ground with about 5 feet to spare on each end.

By Peter Lewis
From: Bridgton, Maine
Jan 16, 2014
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

The gear list is hysterical (and likely accurate). When my partner and I did the FRA (hard to claim the true FA, even back then---it was just so stinkin' obvious), all we had was a bunch of straight-sided Chouinard stoppers, a set of hexes, some 1-inch webbing, and (as I recall), a hammer. I may have been wearing a 2-inch swami belt (Google it if you're not old enough to know what that is). As an interesting aside, a few minutes after topping out, I fell off the top of the cliff un-roped. To hear the rest of the story, see my comments for the neighboring climb, The El. (It's got a very happy ending.)