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The Dispossessed 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
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Page Views: 373
Submitted By: Jon Lauters on Jan 8, 2008

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Description 

The first 20 feet are the crux. Top out on a ledge. Route goes vertical to slab, clipping the 3rd bolt can be a little hairy.


Location 

To the right of the main wall, Only bolted line on the face.


Protection 

4 Bolts, Fixe anchors - There is a crack at the ledge that will take a tricam.



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By moss1956
Mar 26, 2008
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

This climb was named "Trespass" by its first ascender Katie Ives. The
named listed here is artificial and was placed on rc.com
during a bout of paranoia about access.

In my humble opinion, if you blew the clip at the third bolt bad enough it could be a ground fall. Luckily that part of the climb is slabby and less than vertical. The crux is between the first and second bolt.
After that, the climb is easy.

Also, the one time I climbed it I pulled off a piece of choss about the size of a softball that luckily missed my belayer
who was not wearing a helmet.

One more thing, Katie thought it was a 5.9, and I agree, except that I would call it a 5.9 R.

By Jon Lauters
From: Boulder, Co
Mar 27, 2009

I have heard you can place some gear on this route in addition to clipping bolts. Guessing tricams in pockets.

By Dan Roberts
From: Eastern Iowa
Nov 20, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

One of the most fun climbs at P rocks. Worth the hike. Wouldn't worry about the 3rd bolt runout as there are a lot of good holds up to it.If your good enough to try it it should be pretty easy. Last week the climb seemed very clean and well bolted.If you clip the anchors as soon as you can reach them and calling that the end you have missed out on two more fun moves to finish the climb. ON par with other 10a routes at P Rocks.

By Joe Stark
From: Iowa
Nov 10, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

This route has been cleaned up and the bolts have been moved to safer placements right of the original line.

Trespass 2.0 - 6 bolts to rap ring anchors.

By Mees
From: Iowa
Sep 9, 2013

Another fixed route thanks to Joe and Troy. Surprised no one was maimed or killed considering all the loose blocks this route used to have on it all those years. Good rule of thumb for limestone sport climbs--> If you aren't going to clean it, don't bother bolting it.