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 ADVANCED
Redgarden - Below Lower Ramp
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Apprehension T 
Arcane Saw T 
Bitter Route, The T,TR 
Breakfast Of Champions T,TR 
Cabana Boy T 
Candy-O T 
Captain 4Q aka Santa Ana T,TR 
Captain Crunch S 
Clyncke Punched a Hippy T 
Day Dream T,TR 
Dispensary, The T,S 
Eat or be Eaten aka Super Slab Direct aid variation T 
Flakey Floont T,TR 
Flower Quarter T,TR 
Greaser, The T 
Hasting's Cutoff T 
Lemon Line T 
Little Fish that Die Abruptly TR 
Loose Lucy T 
Lucid Dream T 
Micky Mouse Die-Rect T,TR 
Mr. Natural T 
Over 'ed Power Line T 
Phee-nix T 
Pickpocket T,TR 
Quantum Mechanics T 
Real Men Eat Eggs T 
Remention T 
Rough Roof T 
Roving for Love T 
Schizophrenia T 
Senora (??) T,TR 
Senorita T,TR 
Shadow T 
Slimy Spoon, The T 
Strangle Hold T,S 
Sub Slab T 
Suparete T,S 
Super Natural T 
Super Slab Direct Start T 
Tiny Line T 
Toys for Tots T,S 
Unknown 10c aka Quadrille S 
Velvet Arete aka Premonition, The T 
Velvet Hammer T 
Vertical Smile T 
Waking Sleep T 
Wave Rave aka Smoking Gun T 
Zombies on the Lookout T 

The Dispensary 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Chip Ruckgaber, Summer 2011
Page Views: 449
Submitted By: mike schlauch on Nov 6, 2013

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BETA PHOTO: Climbing between the first two bolts on The Dispen...
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  • Description 

    The Dispensary was approved by the FHRC process in the Spring 2011 session. It's a mixed gear/bolted route starting left and up the ramp from Wave Rave. Refer to page 208 of the Levin guidebook.


    Location 

    This is in the Lower Ramp Wall area. Hike up toward the Roof Routes and look for a faint trail off left at a switch back near the obvious, large, flat boulder. Follow the trail up a bushy gully until you reach a huge cave where Wave Rave starts. Head up the slab for 30 feet to an obvious tree and climb up (gear) toward the first bolt. The route is basically right below Le Toit.


    Protection 

    4 bolts protect the 5.10 climbing. Bring a light rack up to a #3 Camalot for gear opportunities before the first bolt and after the last bolt.



    Comments on The Dispensary Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Steve Sangdahl
    From: eldo sprngs,co
    Nov 6, 2013

    Remember to check your knot and yer belayer!

    By climberz
    Nov 14, 2013

    Good climb.

    The tree at the base of the climb has a large block leaning against it. This scared me, because I could not find any gear for the 1st 15 ft of climbing when you are already 40 feet up the ramp. I really wanted to sling the tree. I ended up doing this and had my belayer move toward a cave thinking that if I did fall and weighted the tree, the boulder might dislodge and crush my belayer, me, and possibily someone at the bottom of the hill. After building a nest 6 feet below the 1st bolt, I downclimbed to the tree and removed the sling because I did not dare weight it. Seemed possible if I fell higher on the climb.

    That said the climbing is easy to the first pieces but intimidating and not on very solid rock.

    I was unable to find any gear besides the tree before leaving the ramp. Maybe a #4 Camalot in the mud layer?

    I would love to see this block removed. It would be dangerous to do because it might roll all the way to the trail. Might be able to sling it at lower it down the ramp.

    Anyway, fun climb, well worth doing. Decent warm up for routes in the roof area.

    By mtoensing
    From: Boulder
    Mar 17, 2014

    ^^ Regarding the post above about the gear before the bolt, I was able to find plenty of gear to safely protect the climbing before 1st bolt. The moves off of the ramp are chossy but it is all there and gear can be had if you look around. After clipping the bolt, I back cleaned my gear easily. At the last bolt, step left and head straight up. I was able to find smaller gear to protect the moves onto the ledge before the belay tree. The tree has webbing and you can easily setup a TR after leading.

    I found this climb to be similar but better than bolting for glory. It will clean up nicely with more traffic.

    PS the block mentioned that is leaning against the tree is still there, but I put my feet on it and didn't seem too sketchy to me. If it goes, it will probably stop at the base of the ramp.