|Redgarden - Below Lower Ramp
BETA PHOTO: Climbing between the first two bolts on The Dispen...
The Dispensary was approved by the FHRC process in the Spring 2011 session. It's a mixed gear/bolted route starting left and up the ramp from Wave Rave. Refer to page 208 of the Levin guidebook.
This is in the Lower Ramp Wall area. Hike up toward the Roof Routes and look for a faint trail off left at a switch back near the obvious, large, flat boulder. Follow the trail up a bushy gully until you reach a huge cave where Wave Rave starts. Head up the slab for 30 feet to an obvious tree and climb up (gear) toward the first bolt. The route is basically right below Le Toit.
4 bolts protect the 5.10 climbing. Bring a light rack up to a #3 Camalot for gear opportunities before the first bolt and after the last bolt.
|Comments on The Dispensary
|By Steve Sangdahl|
From: eldo sprngs,co
Nov 6, 2013
Remember to check your knot and yer belayer!
Nov 14, 2013
The tree at the base of the climb has a large block leaning against it. This scared me, because I could not find any gear for the 1st 15 ft of climbing when you are already 40 feet up the ramp. I really wanted to sling the tree. I ended up doing this and had my belayer move toward a cave thinking that if I did fall and weighted the tree, the boulder might dislodge and crush my belayer, me, and possibily someone at the bottom of the hill. After building a nest 6 feet below the 1st bolt, I downclimbed to the tree and removed the sling because I did not dare weight it. Seemed possible if I fell higher on the climb.
That said the climbing is easy to the first pieces but intimidating and not on very solid rock.
I was unable to find any gear besides the tree before leaving the ramp. Maybe a #4 Camalot in the mud layer?
I would love to see this block removed. It would be dangerous to do because it might roll all the way to the trail. Might be able to sling it at lower it down the ramp.
Anyway, fun climb, well worth doing. Decent warm up for routes in the roof area.