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Boulders Behind the Main Parking Lot/Visitor Center
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The Dirty Job 

Hueco: V7-8 Font: 7B

   
Type:  Boulder
Consensus:  Hueco: V7-8 Font: 7B [details]
FA: Colin Rickert
Page Views: 869
Submitted By: Colin R on Apr 16, 2010
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Unknown Canadian climber on the crux of "The Dirty...

Description 

Start by using a couple horrible pistol grips / pinches and some feet scummed under the roof then perform a very powerful deadpoint. Final moves must be campused. (hint - throw your feet really high to start - seriously). Rumor has it that some footholds have broken and upped the grade to V8/9 or something but I remember my feet being crap anyways so not sure if that changes the problem or not.


Location 

On the underside of the Guinness Boulder in the Main Parking Lot.


Protection 

pads



Photos of The Dirty Job Slideshow Add Photo
Colin Rickert about to fire the crux of "The Dirty Job", V7/8
Colin Rickert about to fire the crux of "The Dirty...
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By Colin R
From: Ottawa, ON
Jul 26, 2010

Supposedly with the "footholds" that have broken this problem is now a V9. It was probably a little undergraded at V7 when I first did it but I'm not sure if people think it's a new problem or not (I don't but then again I haven't done it lately). A strong local climber otherwise known as Dweezil suggested calling it "The Dirtier Job". If people think it should be renamed on account of it being definitely harder than V8, let me know...

By Colin R
From: Ottawa, ON
Nov 21, 2013

Lots of folks are using the new high toe-hook beta. This involves pinching the two pistol grips and then throwing the toes way up right and toe-hooking before moving back to the left side of the boulder with your hand. I am all for variations and even eliminates but I would say that you don't get the full value of the problem if you do it this way. Using the feet down low (which may have gotten worse) and throwing dynamically is really what the original problem is all about.

That said, I am happy to see people having fun out out there and trying new things. Also, there's no "wrong" way to climb anything - only thing that matters is that you are having fun!

: )